First knife advice - old Marble Woodcraft

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ncooper18

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Oct 31, 2011
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(Feel free to move if there's a better spot for this)

So I just purchased my first knife since I was a kid (used to be into cheap pocketknives and switchblades when I was younger). It's a Marble Woodcraft I believe. I was hoping you guys could help me date it and provide a bit of advice to a new owner.

I got it off of craigslist from a guy who got it at an estate sale and believes it to be from the 1925-1930 era. He cleaned it up a bit with steel wool but the blade still has a lot of patina. I don't feel strongly either way but is there a protocol for when to shine up an older knife and when to leave it worn?

I bought the knife to use it but I'd like to know if it's valuable or should be treated more as a collectible/antique? Assuming I do use it, is there anything special to keep in mind when sharpening a knife that's 80+ years old? Any other care and maintenance tips specific to older knives (I've read to oil the leather washers so they don't shrink)? The pommel is also a bit loose (can be turned about 10 degrees side to side), I'm guessing tightening the key on the butt might fix this but do I need a special tool, is this something I should be messing with?

Last thing, looking around online, the old Marbles sheaths that look similar to mine all seem to have metal grommets but mine just has stitching. Any ideas if this Is this the original sheath?

Thanks for any input!

(sorry for crappy pics, will try and get better ones soon)

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Says "PAT'D 1916 USA" on one side and, "MARBLE'S GLADSTONE, MICH. U.S.A" on other.
 
From just before WW I to WW II, this was the most popular "hunting" knife in the U.S. Many makers copied it when they could, including Case, Kinfolks, and Wade & Butcher. There are a dozen Marble's versions on sale on ePrey most days. They seem far more common than all the copies combined. You can go there and see what they sell are selling for.

Collectors suggest very minimal treatment. Users do what suits them. Personally, I like the patina.

I have a couple and made a tightening tool for the handle nut out of 1/16" sheet steel stock. Only took a vice and file + ten minutes. Some have made do with needle-nose pliers. As to oiling the handle, never use Neatsfoot Oil. Most products sold as such are petroleum-based and destroy leather.

Marble's made great knives that came in sheaths that don't last well. Finding one in an after-market sheath is very common.

Enjoy. You have a classic.
 
Use it if you want. Collector value is there, but it's more on the order of a new hunting knife, rather than a new car;).

I wouldn't clean it, to me a old knife should look old, and any heavy restoration would hurt the knife rather than help it. Just oil the blade with some mineral oil, and leave it alone. To tighten the handle, make a Y tool as Thomas suggests, those split pommel nuts are soft and can get beat up easily.
 
Thanks a lot guys. Got the handle nice and tight, will get some wax for the leather and oil for the blade. Just need to sharpen it up now, it barely sharpened a pencil today, haha.
 
Thanks Buzz, I'm researching sharpening as we speak so I appreciate the link, that'll save me some time. Any more specific info on the type of steel used? Is it pretty similar to modern carbon steel blades or is there a better modern comp? I've just been on this site for a couple days so all the different blade materials people throw around are over my head still. Cool stuff though, I'm afraid if I don't get off this site soon I might end up with a knife collection though, seeing a lot to like :)
 
ncooper18 said:
Thanks Buzz, I'm researching sharpening as we speak so I appreciate the link, that'll save me some time. Any more specific info on the type of steel used? Is it pretty similar to modern carbon steel blades or is there a better modern comp? I've just been on this site for a couple days so all the different blade materials people throw around are over my head still. Cool stuff though, I'm afraid if I don't get off this site soon I might end up with a knife collection though, seeing a lot to like :)
Click to expand...

Start here for some good tips. I love convex sharpening. I feel it is so much easier and more intuitive than free handing v grinds. (although, I use the same methods for my v grinds free hand and get shaving sharp).

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages.php?pID=4&CDpath=0&keywords=sharpening video


Sorry, I just realized that the link did not post. Here you go!
 
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ncooper18 said:
Thanks Buzz, I'm researching sharpening as we speak so I appreciate the link, that'll save me some time. Any more specific info on the type of steel used? Is it pretty similar to modern carbon steel blades or is there a better modern comp? I've just been on this site for a couple days so all the different blade materials people throw around are over my head still. Cool stuff though, I'm afraid if I don't get off this site soon I might end up with a knife collection though, seeing a lot to like :)
Click to expand...

No problemo. :)

Your knife is probably something like 1095 carbon steel. A steel that is still used to manufacture outdoor knives today, from some of the top manufacturers. It's a good strong steel, and one of the easier steels to work with in the field. It's just not very rust resistant, but the patina will help keep the rust at bay.

Old Marbles knives, such as yours are somewhat common. Lots of them were made. But they are also highly sought after by veteran outdoorsmen. Older Marbles knives were very well made, with some excellent heat treatment to the steel. The design is no-nonsense, traditional, and utterly functional.

You didn't just buy a knife. You bought into a very old company that had very high values. The company has since changed hands, and no longer really resembles the Marbles of old. But you can get into some pretty big conversation on the Internet, when it comes to old Marbles Knives. They were the pinnacle of outdoor knife manufacturing in the US for many years. Your knife was "The Knife" to have for a long, long time.

The more you use a an old Marbles knife, the more you understand how much has been lost by most modern knife manufacturer's in how to properly design an outdoor knife.
 
Congrats! That's a classic, high-quality knife with a ton of character. It's got some collector value, but if you use it and take care of it properly, that collector value isn't going to go down much, if at all. I'm with the rest of the folks here....sharpen it, keep a coat of mineral oil on it, beeswax on the stacked leather, don't store it in the sheath...that's really all you should do. Other than go out in the woods and have a nice time using it.

Maybe get yourself a nice new sheath for it.

Enjoy! Great knife.
 
Great stuff guys, thanks!

After researching convex sharpening and watching above vids I think I'm ready to go buy some supplies tomorrow. Only remaining confusion there is conflicting info on wet/dry paper grits but I guess I'll just get a whole range and see what works. I was thinking I'd start at around 400-600 and work on up to 2000 I guess unless someone has a better idea. Have a good thick old leather belt with a broken buckle I'll make a strop out of, just need to order some compound.

Also, in reading more about Marble's, I just found out that some of those folks went on to start Bark River. The idea to buy a knife in the first place was planted about a year ago when I somehow stumbled on Bark River's page and spent hours going through all the different models and handle options, blew me away. So pretty cool to find out that I coincidentally ended up with the grandfather to some of those BR knives. I can't afford it now but one day I'm gonna spring for a BR gunny with elder burl, something along these lines:

http://barkriverknifetool.com/Dropdowns/Burls/Gunny-Natural_Elder_Burl.jpg

edit: Meant to ask if anyone has any suggestions for a good place to get a sheath for it? This one's about to fall apart. It's also kind of an oddly shaped knife, not sure I'd be comfortable buying something online without making sure it fit first. Thanks!
 
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When you get to 2000, you have reach Chinese cardboard. You know, that light yellow stuff. Great for polishing edges and quite economical. ^___^
 
I bet JRE could make you a nice sheath. Loosely associated with brkt and might even have a woodcraft for a model. Google is your friend.
 
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