first knife finished

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Sep 22, 2012
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166
So I've been trying for a while to make a knife, more because I think it's satisfying to work with my hands than because I expect a great tool. I've made some fixed blade blanks out of angle iron (just fooling around) and a friction folder out of a brake rotor. This is my first completed knife though and in the process I learned that finishing a knife is at least 2x as much work as making a blank. I was hoping for some tips and advice, so here goes!

I decided to make this out of a wore out sawzall blade, because I figure the wear resistance and toughness will already be adequate, and it's thin, making it easy to grind without adversely affecting the temper and good for fishing (which is mainly what it'll be used for) I'll make notes with the problems and dislikes I have. Please chime in! I'd love to hear some opinions from knifemakers.

Here it is. The wood is a bit of a mystery, but it's dense and easy to work with. The pins are 1/8" steel rod. The miniature guthook was an afterthought, I put it there to cut fishing line. This picture doesn't show it very well. I wish I would've put a ricasso between the blade choil and grind, but hindsight is 20/20.

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Here it is again:

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Here's the hook. In hindsight, I regret it. It's a bit more (complexity wise) than I can handle. You can see the edge bevel (on the actual blade) is pretty clean though. This pic shows a shadow that makes the hook look worse than it is though. A later picture shows it better.

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Pins are clean and polished. I actually like the way they came out.

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The handle also has a layer of what used to be red paper micarta. Staining the handle was rough on the color, which used to be much brighter. As you can see, there is also some separation where the wood was sanded back between the wood and micarta. That's a real disappointment. I used fiberglass resin to glue the handle to the blank and pins. I used it because the micarta was just paper prior to being put on the handle, IE it got its resin being glued to the blade. I've had good success making micarta before, but I think next time I'll make the micarta separately and epoxy it on instead of trying to kill two birds with one stone.

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After I finished it I was terrified that it would lose its temper from grinding, even though I went slow and dipped the blank in water often. Happily, this fear was unsubstantiated. It sharpened up BEAUTIFULLY. Edge retention will be no where near as good as that of a knife which has had a heat treat specifically for it, and I'm okay with that for now. This is a better look at the hook too.

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Cutting fruit the knife worked perfectly. After this little apple, the knife will still take hair off my arm, so the temper can't be THAT bad. I look forward to gutting fish with this.

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A few questions:

1) What is a good way to make the hook?

2) Can I make the micarta and attach the handles at the same time if I use epoxy instead of the resin? Can one make micarta with epoxy?

3) How can I stain the wood without staining the micarta?

4) How do I add dense, evenly spaced "jimping"? I added some to this knife as best I could with a dremel. Maybe I just need more practice?

5) Any idea what the composition of this steel may be?

I think I may make another friction folder with a thicker saw blade I have in the future. I'm really impressed with the edge this took.

I enjoyed this try and look forward to refining another attempt again. Any other comments are welcome!
 
Update:

I went out and cut cardboard with it, and was surprised at how well it did! I think a large part of it was how thin it is. It did great as a box cutter. I cut for a solid 10 minutes just shredding cardboard and it still took hair off my arm. After a stropping it's good as new (that is to say, mediocre) I'm impressed! It's not S30V but it's surprising me!
 
All things considered, I am still a newbie to this as well, but I'll offer some advice as I see it.

1. Most will recommend against the gut hook or if you insist on using a gut hook, make a separate dedicated gut hook tool. If you are dead set on a gut hook on the blade, I would recommend using a round file.

2. I wouldn't recommend making the mycarta during your final glue up. You won't be able to get the substrate fully saturated and this will possibly lead to trapped moisture and even bacteria. Yes, I would recommend using epoxy over fiberglass resin to make your mycarta. West Systems 105 Resin and 206 Hardener are the normally recommended product for home brew mycarta.

3. I wouldn't stain the wood. If you want it darker, use darker wood. Walnut is a nice rich dark brown color and is fairly inexpensive.

4. We all seem to start out thinking that jimping adds to the knife overall, but in reality unless it is dead on even it takes away from the over all knife. I recommend staying away from jimping and filework and concentrate on other skills. Yet again, if you are dead set on it, make sure you lay out your spacing evenly and use files. Don't use the dremel.

5. This was heat treated and tempered to be a saws all blade, not a knife. It's mystery steel and as far as composition, I don't know enough to even offer a better guess than google might yield. While some "salvaged" steels possess enough carbon to make a decent knife, it is easier to use known knife steel. It took a few knives for it to sink in to me, but the "free" steel I was salvaging to make knives out of was actually 2 to 3 times more expensive than buying known steel. You figure in extra time/work and expendables like grinder belts and it really adds up quickly, let alone the crap shoot on heat treat.

What equipment other than a dremel are you using for this? I like that you went with something thin. So many seem to think a knife needs to be 1/4" thick when they first start out. However, it appears you just profiled and sharpened it. I can't see any actual bevels. Your profile was also somewhat restricted by being a saws all blade, though I don't think it was horrible. Still I think it would have looked better if you would have dropped the tip just slightly to help avoid the straight edged spine. Of course the fit and finish need a little bit of work, but that is to be expected with a first knife.

Overall, definitely not a bad first effort. There a some things to work on with your next and I highly recommend buying some steel for it. 1080 or 1084 if you want to try your own heat treat, or if you want to send it out for heat treat, use whatever suits your fancy.

Good luck,
Chris
 
All things considered, I am still a newbie to this as well, but I'll offer some advice as I see it.

1. Most will recommend against the gut hook

2. I wouldn't recommend making the mycarta during your final glue up.

3. I wouldn't stain the wood.

4. I recommend staying away from jimping and filework and concentrate on other skills.

5. This was heat treated and tempered to be a saws all blade, not a knife.

What equipment other than a dremel are you using for this? I like that you went with something thin. So many seem to think a knife needs to be 1/4" thick when they first start out. However, it appears you just profiled and sharpened it. I can't see any actual bevels. Your profile was also somewhat restricted by being a saws all blade, though I don't think it was horrible. Still I think it would have looked better if you would have dropped the tip just slightly to help avoid the straight edged spine. Of course the fit and finish need a little bit of work, but that is to be expected with a first knife.

Overall, definitely not a bad first effort. There a some things to work on with your next and I highly recommend buying some steel for it. 1080 or 1084 if you want to try your own heat treat, or if you want to send it out for heat treat, use whatever suits your fancy.

Good luck,
Chris

Thanks for the response Chris! :D

Point 1: I think you're right. Rookie mistake.
Point 2: Okay. The resin actually works really well but I'm going to try epoxy for the next batch on your recommendation.
Point 3: What does everyone do to make their wood glossy? Sanded and buffed? Waxes?
Point 4: That's probably a good idea. I actually have another blank I made from a saw that uses ground down teeth for jimping, the spacing is perfect as a result. I haven't decided if it's worth finishing.
Point 5: True. I knew that when I made it too. It sharpens extremely well though, which is satisfying.

The rest of your questions:

Tools:
I also regularly use an angle grinder, table-top belt sander, and circular saw (for the wood).

Shape:
I originally intended to do a scandi on this. I ground a 20 degree per side scandi and expected it to go back further, it didn't because the stock is so thin :grumpy: SO it just looked "sharpened" because of how thin it is. Then I used stones on a CAS system to sharpen, then stropped. It polished up really well! I think I might get some 1095 from a shop in town soon though. What is the best way to send it out to get heat treated? OR is treating 1080 so easy? Thanks for your comment!!! :thumbup:
 
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