First knife first design under your judgement

U

Userro

Joined
Dec 10, 2011
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So I'm going to cut my first blade from a piece of O2 steel, I've drawn its line on paper and cardboard and made a pair of pics, I sure could use some opinions from more experienced users.

2z5rucz.jpg


1zwkhfc.jpg


What do you think?
 
Looks good. Will the sharpened edge come below the handle? If so, that could be tricky -- might cut your hand or finger inadvertently.

What will you use it for? If for skinning, I think it's well suited.

If for everyday stuff, I'd consider making a pointier tip. But that's just my personal preference as I've found that I end up needing a sharp tip more often than not. That's one reason I sold my Bark River Kephart: found I needed a sharper tip to do finer tasks with. Of course, if you have a pocket knife on you, then it could fill that role (doing finer tasks) nicely.

Good luck -- seems like you're off to a good start.

-Matthew
 
Thank you for the tips, the edge is in fact pretty near to the handle, problem is that the piece of steel I have to work on is short (about 7.3") and I had to use every inch of it to make a decent sized blade still mantaining some kind of ricasso, I don't know, maybe I could think about some kind of lower guard.
About the use, I didn't think about it's pratice side actually, I don't hunt, I don't fish, so I think it won't be used a lot, maybe during some hiking and everyday stuff, but that's that.
 
One solution to the cutting edge vs. finger issue mentioned is to take the thin part of the handle a little thinner. Give yourself more of a finger groove, with a more vertical front edge of the groove, where you currently have that little step.
 
Yeah, I'll try with a more convex shape


Like this
5txsp.jpg


time to cut, I got the files and I'll go buy an hacksaw in a pair of hours.
 
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Actually, I really like that for a first design, and first effort at knifemaking. You made it a small knife. That makes the project more swallowable for the under equipped, and the HT is easier. I see a lot of guys first knives, and usually think they're too big. My first knifemaking assignment for anyone learning from me is the Pukko. Small, straightish, easy to do.

Your knife looks good to me. The edge coming close to the handle will give greater control during fist grip cutting, so don't let that bother you. But, when you're finishing your handles, be careful to dry fit and make sure it doesn't overlap the bevels at all.
 
OK, sounds great! Since I'll go shopping for some equipment, what kind of sand paper should I buy? I read in other topics that to fade out the file signs a range between 40 and 240 is ok, but, since I would like to make a mirror blade, should I go with higher number? Like 600-1500.
 
Looks to me like the handle is probably a bit too bulky. While it may feel okay now, consider how it will feel when you bulk it out side to side with the scales.

Mind you, it's better to start bulky, because it is far easier to remove material later than it is to put material back on. ;)
 
Yeah maybe I could trim it a little more, but I have big hands :) I'll think about that
 
Userro said:
OK, sounds great! Since I'll go shopping for some equipment, what kind of sand paper should I buy? I read in other topics that to fade out the file signs a range between 40 and 240 is ok, but, since I would like to make a mirror blade, should I go with higher number? Like 600-1500.
Click to expand...

Some can get a mirror finish at 1500 if they use a buffer, I was going to a 2500 grit finish and at first I was happy with it, but I have since decided that it needs to be better so I have stopped trying for a mirror finish till i can get a buffer. What you need to get for sandpaper is the wet/dry kind normally silicon carbide. Best of luck with your project, and be careful that first one can start a time consuming addiction:p
 
The handles look a little large. I had the same issue too as a beginner. When your holding the cardboard cut out it will feel small but you have to remember that wen you add the scales you triple +/- the size of the handle. There is nothing worse than a handle that is just too big to be comfortable.

Try wrapping a kitchen towel or cloth around the handle to mimic what its size would be after the scales are on.
 
Looks good, I agree with JW, maybe add a few layers of cardboard to your templete to see how the handle will feel, each side is 1/4 " to 3/8" thick.
 
Userro said:
Thank you for the tips, the edge is in fact pretty near to the handle, problem is that the piece of steel I have to work on is short (about 7.3") and I had to use every inch of it to make a decent sized blade still mantaining some kind of ricasso, I don't know, maybe I could think about some kind of lower guard.

About the use, I didn't think about it's praticle side actually, I don't hunt, I don't fish, so I think it won't be used a lot, maybe during some hiking and everyday stuff, but that's that.
Click to expand...

You know, there's no law that says you must use as much of a piece of steel as possible. What I'm hearing you say is that the most important element of the design is to do just that. And it's exactly what I did with my first knives.

I really think a narrower blade would be more useful rather than one so wide.

You might consider making the finger groove part larger, say about the size of a little 1" drum sander so that you don't have to try to sand that inside curve by hand. I think it might feel better too.

Good luck. Keep the pictures and updates coming.

- Paul Meske
 
Ok, I cut the shape and did a preliminary sanding, tomorrow I'll approach the sharpening.
What do you think? I trimmed the handle a lot and it seems to me that the lines are flowing and neat.

2mri41s.jpg
 
Ok, so I tried to sharpen the blade a little, but I'm not satisfied with the look and the weight of it, as you can see the edge is perfectly straight
2m2jdzr.jpg
.
But the side of the blade look a little too "chubby" and convex.

Other pic:
xljtsh.jpg


Also I would want to know how you do the final edge after the HT, is sandpaper enough?
 
so I tried to sharpen the blade a little
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There's no "sharpening" at this point, put that idea aside until later.
Keep it not-sharp at the edge until everything is complete. The last think you want to be doing is waving your hands around an edge that will cut you.

Grind/file/sand your bevel higher up toward the spine. You can remove a LOT of metal. Look at one of your other knives for perspective unless you're aiming for the proverbial sharpened prybar.

Looks like a good first design to me too. I would have extended the guard to the edge instead of doing that step. You can always file in a choil or simply not bring the bevels all the way back. Regardless, it should function just fine as-is.

Keep grinding, and more pix!

-Daizee
 
Userro said:
Removed a lor of steel and made a pseudo sharp edge
Click to expand...

If you are planning on ever heat treating it (which you should do or have done for you) you shouldn't be taking it to a sharp edge. It does look pretty thick but it leaves you more prone to warpage. It is also a little dangerous trying to finish the handle with it sharp. Not to mention the fun you could be in for if you try to drill holes in it while it is sharp and it spins :(
 
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