First knife with real steel! - WIP

Tiiiiiiiim

Tiiiiiiiim

Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
952
I've made 2 knives so far stock removal style out of a mystery SS plate i found lying around work. But FINALLY I've got some real steel to play with. I bought a small length of D2 and RWL 34. I just started making my first knife out of D2 and i thought i would post some progress pics as i go to get some pointers. It's going to be used as my work knife (I'm a funiture makers apprentice) and probably a bit of camping.

Also, any Aussie knife makers out there know somewhere i can get heat treat done? In QLD if possible.

The drawing
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Roughly cut out with the angle grinder
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Shape cleaned up
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The previous knives mentioned.
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Emphasiski said:
That's a pretty good looking tanto. What are you going to use for your handle?
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It's going to be a timber handle. I've got a few choices. Macassar ebony, figured walnut, wenge, stripey kwila, rock maple, jarrah, Euro beach or American oak.

Probably one of the first 3.
 
Forgot to mention PNG/Australian rosewood as an option for the handle too.

Just finished roughing out the main bevel. Unfortunately i can only use AO belts because i'm just using a hobby belt/disk sander combo and i cant get any metal working belts in the right size. So i've got to do a whole lot of cooling off between grinds.
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r-winter said:
if you're grinder/sander is 1x30 or 1x42 check these belts out they are what i use with very good results http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=48040&cat=1,43072
Richard Winter
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Those are the belts I am using (1x30) and they do an ok job, but wear out quickly. I am trying to sell my downhill bike so I can upgrade to a 2x72 grinder. I almost had the fork from it sold and that would have covered a couple of the grinders available, but the deal fell through so I am stuck with the 1x30 for a bit longer.

Just use the grinder to rough in your bevels and clean it all up with a file, that is what I have been doing lately.
 
r-winter said:
if you're grinder/sander is 1x30 or 1x42 check these belts out they are what i use with very good results http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=48040&cat=1,43072
Richard Winter
Click to expand...

unky_gumbi said:
Those are the belts I am using (1x30) and they do an ok job, but wear out quickly. I am trying to sell my downhill bike so I can upgrade to a 2x72 grinder. I almost had the fork from it sold and that would have covered a couple of the grinders available, but the deal fell through so I am stuck with the 1x30 for a bit longer.

Just use the grinder to rough in your bevels and clean it all up with a file, that is what I have been doing lately.
Click to expand...

No, it's far bigger than a 1inch. It's a 150 x 1220mm whatever that is in inch's.

Here's the latest pics. All sanded up with 150grit. The shape and changed a bit and shrunk a little because getting the angles were a lot harder than i thought and i had to redo a few times and i dropped it once. I really thought the straight lines on the tanto style would be easier...oh well. It doesn't look too bad. The side shown is the best just because the plunge line was straighter.

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Can just see my start on the lanyard hole in this one. I have to go get a small file though. I'll probably drill my pin holes once in done with that. What grit of sandpaper do you usually go down to before sending away for heat treat? and if i want to get a makers mark engraved do i do that before or after the HT?
 
What grit of sandpaper do you usually go down to before sending away for heat treat? and if i want to get a makers mark engraved do i do that before or after the HT?
 
If you are sending it off the a reputable Htr then you can take it down about as for as you want. They need to use an inert atmosphere though. If you have any doubts then do not finish it more than 220 grit. You can go to 400 if you really want but you might end up back at 220 when you get it back. You can etch your name after HT. If you are stamping do it before.
 
A C Richards said:
If you are sending it off the a reputable Htr then you can take it down about as for as you want. They need to use an inert atmosphere though. If you have any doubts then do not finish it more than 220 grit. You can go to 400 if you really want but you might end up back at 220 when you get it back. You can etch your name after HT. If you are stamping do it before.
Click to expand...

ok, thanks for the help.
 
Buy GOOD files, cheap files are a waist of money and an endless source of frustration.
With three good files you can make a good knive, and they will be worth 1000 times more than a box full off cheap files.
Once you've worked with these you'll find out what additional files you'll want

Get:
1 large flat bastard file to do the rough stock removal
1 smaller flat single cut file to smooth out your work before you switch to sandpaper
(I prefer draw filing with this one)
1 round chain saw file to make a nice round ricasso line
 
I actually find it easier to get a consistent bevel with the sander though because i can hole it in one place for a bit. It'll come with practice i know but i seem to roll thew file too much and not get a clean angle.
 
Been a bit of a lazy poster recently. but here is the latest. I think it's all ready to send away for HT (i hate the idea of sending things away and waiting, i wish i had the resources to do it myself...NOW) i think. Lanyard holes drilled and filed out, pin holes drilled and all finished to 260#. You can also see the macassar scales i've been playing with too.

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I haven't sent it away for HT yet because I've been fiddling with my first folder and i want to wait until it's finished so i cn send that away for HT while im at it. Here's some pics for interests sake. This ones RWL 34 with wengee scales.

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