First knife

Joined
Jan 26, 2005
Messages
13
The pics are not that great but here it is anlong with some small finger knives and a work in progress:


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Welcome to BFC.

You've got a style all your own, that's for sure.

Give us some specs...what's the steel and deminsions etc...
 
Over all length is 14 inches, useable blade is 9 inches. Soace between the barbs is 2.5 inches.

Blade is L6 or something close, it came from a cross cut saw blade around 100 years old. To give an idea of how hard the metal is, AFTER i annealed the drill points it ate 2 cobalt bits to make 3 holes in the handel. The blade (before the handle was put on) could be bent so that butt and tip were at a 45 degree reltion to their "rest" positions.

The handle is a hard wood scrap held on by 3 bolts. It's leather wrapped with the leather soaked in two part epoxy before being wound, i smoothe it out by hand before it dried.

The thumb notches were applied with a dremel tool.

Polisig was ttempted with a 400 grit belt, a 600 grit belt and a 800 grit cork belt followed by 1000 and 2000 grit paper. It acomplished very little.

There are small bubbles here and there combined with pits in the metal which make getting a mirror polish impossilbe. I plan to get a sand blasting rig to overcome this problem with this steel type.
 
I love stuff like this! Here is why we make our own knives - absolutely no dependency on any manufacturer's imagination or bottom line. This is so cool. Way to go! And I dig the small knives too, more great stuff. The leather handle looks a bit small for my hand anyway, but the handle on the in-progress knife looks just right.

Welcome to Shop Talk, I hope you come around often and make a whole lot more knives. Your style is not for everyone, but it is unique and utterly cool. Congratulations, this is some good stuff! :cool:

What's your actual name? I'd like to address you in some way, but your handle is hard to type. ;)
 
The first one is actually functional, i've been using it around the farm all day. The sole drawback is that the lower barb sometimes gets in the way with chopping, however the second design will not have that problem. As it was designed for stabbing (it's supposed to be a sacrifical daggar) that's not really a design flaw.

Zach.
 
blacken the steel! make them orc swords! sorry i had to say it, being the LotRs enthusiast i am. looks good, but im telling ya they look like something a moria orc would use! next time you might want to try to grind wider bevels so that they will cut better.
good luck and keep grindin out the orc stuff! ;)
 
you can put oil on the surface and let it burn in an oven at 400 to 450 degrees. this smells up the house, and will make you wife very angry. try quenching in oil instead of water during HT. you can also heat the blade to about 400 and use beeswax, mixed with old motor oil, and rub it on to the hot blade letting it burn and blacken, this leaves a more "orc" finish. you can also get teflon, and gun kote from brownells.com. this cure at temp. in the 100 to 200 degree range, and can be done in an oven.you can let the make the blades rust completely then sand them with a random orbital lightly, and it leaves a slightily silver/black finish with cool pitting patterns. basically it has a polished forge finish.
if i might sugest it, blackening the handles would make it match the blades better once they are black. you might accomplish this with some wax and a propane torch, just heat the wax a bit, rub it thickly on the handle, the heat the handle with the torch, allowing the wax to soak and blacken, then wipe it with a rag. you can do this method with patroleum jelly, but it doesnt get as dark, and if you apply to much, it will leave a slippery handle. you should was the leather with a little warm water and soap, after melting the jelly into the leather, but let it cool first, then work it a bit, then you can was it if its greasy.
 
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