First Kydex Sheath: Damage to Knife Problems

[B.F.U]

So, I have recently taken my first steps into knife and sheath making. My first knife is not finished, as I've had some tool problems. However, today I decided to make good use of my spring break time and try my first sheath. I am actually pretty pleased with it as a first attempt, it looks alright and holds the knife well, but I've found that it has done some real damage to my knife. (As a side note, the knife I made the sheath for is a knife I know very little about other than that my Dad got it for me in Russia, or from a Russian. If anybody can identify it or the company that made it I would be grateful).

Knife in sheath:

Damage to knife:

So, I understand some scratches will come with a kydex, it's the nature of the beast. But I think that I must have missed something. This knife was, well is, a very beautiful blade and now it has some serious rubbing on the leather, scratches on the micarta (?), and scuffs on the blade. I was hoping with all the collective knowledge here on BladeForums I could get some advice. I am open to any suggestions (lining, shaping methods, etc.). Thanks!

Also, I admit I used very non-professional methods of shaping and heating. If anyone thinks it is pertinent I will give the details.

ALLHSS

 

[summit2g]

Did you use some sort of masking tape on the knife while you are pressing it?
The good thing about kydex is that you could always reheat it and re press it.
2 layers of white masking tape on each side works awesome for me.
Jose

 

[B.F.U]

Did you use some sort of masking tape on the knife while you are pressing it?

Nope, never heard of or thought of that. Great idea. Normal masking tape doesn't melt?

 

[Mitchell Knives]

The tape trick can help.

Also, make sure the inside of the sheath is spotless before you rivet it together.

 

[B.F.U]

I think that may have contributed a lot to the scratches on the blade. I did clean the inside before riveting, but decided to do some more cutting/sanding after. Thanks for the advice.

 

[theHobbyist]

Like everyone else says... tape, I use the 2 or 3" blue painters tape (seems to stick better for me). And as Mitchell stated clean the inside before assembly or inserting the knife... I failed to do so and scuffed up a nice mirror finish..

I don't see any shots of the edge of the sheath, but in that first pic it looks like there's a nick in it that could be cleaned up a bit.

Other than that, that's a nice looking sheath!

 

[B.F.U]

Thanks! I noticed that nick too. So, can I reheat the kydex with the rivets in and just reinsert the knife and shape with the tape covering?

 

[sykes3170]

Reheat it with a heat gun. Then you can heat only the part that the blade fits into.

 

[MatthewSB]

I think that may have contributed a lot to the scratches on the blade. I did clean the inside before riveting, but decided to do some more cutting/sanding after. Thanks for the advice.

I'd highly recommend experimenting on a Mora or something else you don't mind ruining in the process of learning.

You've seen the result of 2 things here:

1. Not using tape - you need to allow air around the blade for it to move while being inserted and removed from the sheath, and to allow dirt and dust and mud and whatever to share the sheath with the blade and not be pressed, HARD, into the shiny steel. I use 3 thicknesses of 3" masking tape and rarely have "kydex scratches" on my blades.

2. Before riveting, you must finish every bit of sanding and rinse the sheath out. If you get a couple pieces from the sandpaper, or even kydex flakes, you can damage a blade.

I did the same thing the first time I molded kydex to an expensive tool steel knife. I had deep, like really deep, scratches in the steel from sandpaper sand and not leaving any room around the blade when molding.

Lessons learned, go make a dozen more sheaths and each one will get better and better. There really is an "art" to making good kydex sheaths.

Reheat it with a heat gun. Then you can heat only the part that the blade fits into.

If he doesn't just scrap this sheath and start over he risks scratching the blade even more, or at best stretching the kydex around it which will look aweful. That is too pretty a knife to have a misformed sheath.

Everytime I've ever used my heat gun the kydex got funny and looked like crap when I was done. Now I just toss sheaths that didn't turn out perfect and start over.

I have a 5 gallon bucket full of fail and a couple of perfect sheaths now

 

[B.F.U]

Yeah, I'm wishing now I would have used my mora. I guess I didn't read enough, or think enough, and really wanted a new kydex sheath for this knife. I'm "learning" a alot (making a lot of mistakes). But I really am learning. I used the suggested tape technique and it worked very well. I also finished all sanding etc. and cleaned the inside before riveting, and I haven't had any scratches. Granted, it was on a different and much much much less pretty knife. I was skeptical of the heat gun suggestion. I don't have a heat gun anyway.

Do you guys have any suggestions for how to recondition the knife I used? I'm really bummed I scratched it up. It's a pretty, useful, important knife, and I'd like to get that mirror polish back and recondition the leather/micarta on the handle.

 

[MatthewSB]

Do you guys have any suggestions for how to recondition the knife I used? I'm really bummed I scratched it up. It's a pretty, useful, important knife, and I'd like to get that mirror polish back and recondition the leather/micarta on the handle.

Polishing compound and a lot of work.

I don't have a heat gun anyway.

The only use I've found for one is making belt loops and other doodads.

 

[Curt@JCKnifeworks]

Reheating the entry area of the sheath and pulling/curling it away with your hands makes for a scratch free entry. I also use a tie wrap or small drill bit to make a drain hole in the bottom of the sheath. This can be done after its riveted even, by reheating up the bottom portion and sliding a tie wrap in. Having that drain hole comes in handy, and you can clean up your sheath in the manufacturing process by just dunking it into a 5 gallon bucket.

I see bits and pieces of that red Kydex on your blade, which is indicative of too tight of fit, or interference somewhere on a sharp corner. Definitely wrap it up with some form of tape to give 2-3 thousandths clearance, and don't be afraid to reheat the Kydex in areas to tweak your fit and mold it.

Looks pretty good for your first one!