First mock up for a throwing knife

B

Bo T

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Feb 12, 2011
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Here is my first mock up for a throwing knife following Ralph Thorns guidelines in his book.

Avsppm012.jpgKD1.jpg

With the quarters attached I'm just shy of a 60/40 balance point. I'll put lead sheet on the back of the handle and wrap it with cord on my next mock up. I'll also remove the lower finger groove. These are out of mill steel, and hopefully the 2nd will be the last before I start using high carbon steel. The epoxy/cotton wrap is rough so I think I will try a thinner smoother cord on my next one. Hopefully, I can reduce the amount of time I spend grinding bevels on the second one.
the small knife is a 2 finger necker. I'll deepen the rear finger groove and use this one as a pattern.
 
I made another mock up out of mild steel. I used a cotton strap over a thin lead sheet on both sides of the handle. The knife (top) meets the 62/38 balance point spec. I am going to burn the handles off of the mockups, remove the lead, and attempt to attach 1/8" mild steel to each side of the handle to pull the weight back. I am also going to wrap with a much thinner material as the last two were ugly (but functional).

TK2.jpg

The blank (bottom) is cut out of annealed 1095. I've fattened the tip a little (thoughts?).
 
I used JB Weld and steel rivets to attach the steel scales to the handle. I don't have a picture but I also epoxied a thin elastic material on the handle. It still does not look good but it is a lot better than the ones I tried before. And it balances at 62/38. The lead I used earlier now lines the jaws on my vise.

throwing knife.JPG

This knife could be made more elegantly by milling from 7/16" 1075 bar stock.

The blanks in the backgroun are awaiting grinding and a HT kiln.
 
Yea, please do keep us aprised...I'm looking at using the same rivets Bobby Branton uses on his throwers to attach aluminum scales to some of my knives...I am a bit
concerned that the weight of the scales may work the rivets loose a bit...Branton knives use G10 i believe and i haven't had any of mine work loose with the
3/16" steel rivets and brass washers...So let us know how it works,looks like your having fun...I have an 18' sword blade knife i made andbalanced to the 38/62 ratio with quarters i taped on as a handle, and it will go a long way without flipping over, but i ain't gonna throw it hundreds of times either,it's a handful...Gusty
 
I've thrown the mock-up (pictured above) about 50 times. The handle is holding (but the blade is bent about 10 degrees out of true). As soon as I get it straightened I'll go out and abuse it some more. I'm slowly grinding out my 1095 blanks and learning how to heat treat them when I am finished.
 
If you keep slamming the handles, they will loosen up. All you need to do is peen them down again. If you get good sticks, you will never have a problem. I am going to a 5/16ths thick wall tubing this year to make my handles smoother and to give my knives a new look.. I have played with the tubing for about 10 years and never had a problem. You will have to grind the handles off to remove them from the knife. No epoxy here.
 
Bobby , do tell....sounds cool..can't wait to see them...The rivets never really bothered me,but if the tech exists why not use it...My #19's need new ones soon,and
my hand filed trubal bowie axe wouldn'nt hurt to have some new ones...I've stuck them in each other a bunch of times..LOL..What and where prey tell are you
getting tubing that tough....Gusty.....PS...what the heck was the material they used on the old tru-bals...it's held up 30 yrs and i love the feel of it,even when wet....
 
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