FIRST POST!! Traditional Hawkbill folders for horticulture

TimmyJ

TimmyJ

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Hello to all! I've been reading the forum for a month and now I finally have something worthy of a post. I just started a new job managing a large, organic flower and shrub supply farm. Needless to say, a nice pruning knife is deserved and required for the new job. The question is; Does anyone have any experience pruning with a traditional hawkbill pruner? I've always used whichever edc was the choice of the day. They seem to work, but am I missing out? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks In advance!

Tim Johnson
 
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Congratulations on the new job.

My Spyderco Tasman is the ultimate yardwork knife. It's SpyderEdge hawkbill blade in H1 steel cuts, digs and remains sharp and rust free.

It is an affordable option that you may want to check out
 
Hey Thanks! Is the H1 steel the salt version? I do like the idea of a pocket clip rather than a slipjoint. Do you know if the serrations "chew up" rather than giving a smooth cut?
 
First of all, welcome aboard!

Boy are you in luck! GEC is producing a hawkbill pruner RIGHT NOW! If you wanted to give one a try, I'd say that's fate practically begging you to buy a nice knife.

BTW, Spyderco Tasman, while an excellent knife, isn't traditional, so doesn't really belong in this sub forum.

Welcome again!
 
i would also agree that the Spyderco would be an excellent option, but in the spirit of this forum i would also recommend the current run of GEC #47's that are out, or any of the older swayback style pruners. I have an old Keen Kutter rosewood pruner that i use in the garden and it does a great job.

image_zps8yxjbqie.jpg
 
TimmyJ said:
Hey Thanks! Is the H1 steel the salt version? I do like the idea of a pocket clip rather than a slipjoint. Do you know if the serrations "chew up" rather than giving a smooth cut?
Click to expand...
Serration will make a mess, certainly not a blade for pruning or gardening.
 
Thanks Trout Hound,

I was really referring to the traditional pruners since they can slip in the pocket...I have a fixed blade and shears on the belt already.

That GEC hawbill pruner is what I see working best. I think the linen micarta should hold up too.
 
Jolipapa said:
Serration will make a mess, certainly not a blade for pruning or gardening.
Click to expand...

Serrations cut smoothly, they are not saw teeth. I use one in the garden , and have some serrated kitchen knives and they cut just like a plain edge, only faster
 
This is the Traditional Forum. Non-Traditional One-hand opening, clip bearing knives are not welcome here.
 
TimmyJ said:
Hello to all! I've been reading the forum for a month and now I finally have something worthy of a post. I just started a new job managing a large, organic flower and shrub supply farm. Needless to say, a nice pruning knife is deserved and required for the new job. The question is; Does anyone have any experience pruning with a traditional hawkbill pruner? I've always used whichever edc was the choice of the day. They seem to work, but am I missing out? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks In advance!

Tim Johnson
Click to expand...

I highly recommend the Opinel Pruner. Very traditional. Very effective. Designed for making pull-cuts. And the blade is shaped to get into small places.
12C27-Mod stainless hardened to 58 HRC.
I gave one to a gent who owns a small vineyard. He loves it.

SERPETTE_0845.jpg
 
Case also makes a hawkbill pruner available with yellow delrin scales. Classic, durable, and easy to find when you drop it in the compost pile.
 
shipwright said:
Serrations cut smoothly, they are not saw teeth. I use one in the garden , and have some serrated kitchen knives and they cut just like a plain edge, only faster
Click to expand...
Serration work perfectly for slicing a tomato, when you don't mind of the shape of the cut, but not for grafting or cutting plants that you don't want to wound. There is a good reason for the special shape of a hawkbill and none is serrated.
 
I worked at a tree nursery for 5 years during my time I'm high school and college and I would strongly consider a blade that locks. It is one thing to trim or graft a few plants at a time but if you are doing these tasks thousands of times in a row your motions get a bit sloppy and I have cut myself many times with a slipjoint closing on me when I worked in that business..

To give you an idea of scope we used to pot 40k azaleas every apring.
 
Buy one of these, amazing pruner with the bonus of a grafting budding blade.

Best regards

Robin
 
Jolipapa said:
Seems this one did not stay in a drawer! :thumbup:
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I grabbed 4, Three Licks creeks and one Orchard Gem, so far i've used The OG and the ebony Lick, thinking about using the smooth ivory bone Lick too :D These beauties Love to be used.

Best regards

Robin
 
I
knarfeng said:
I highly recommend the Opinel Pruner. Very traditional. Very effective. Designed for making pull-cuts. And the blade is shaped to get into small places.
12C27-Mod stainless hardened to 58 HRC.
I gave one to a gent who owns a small vineyard. He loves it.

SERPETTE_0845.jpg
Click to expand...

Is this one of their locking versions?, or non? Thx. This thread has me thinking of a gift for me mum.
 
Found it.. It does lock. I think opinel has my vote, think I might have to get one too :/
 
I like the idea of the lock and certainly appreciate the importance of it. The price is wright for the Opinel and leaves me with plenty left to get a more traditional pruner as well. That Northfield with the pruning and grafting blades seems sooo nice!
 
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