First restoration project

Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
6
Hi all. I'm new to these forums and this is my first post. I thought I'd come around these parts to ask for some advice and maybe get a bit of info or opinions on this hatchet I'd like to restore.

I picked this guy up, along with a couple others for $3 each at a local flea market, thinking they'd be good (or at least fun) restoration projects.

When I started, this hatchet bit was nothing more than a solid block of rust. I thought maybe I wouldn't be able to get anywhere with it and perhaps it was just too far gone but after brushing some surface rust with a steel bristle brush I noticed a "Made in Sweden" stamp. Encouraging. Some steel started to show through too. So I decided I'd soak it in a rust remover over night to see what came out. I have some pictures of the bit after the soak. Still no makers mark that I can see. Just the "Made in Sweden" stamp on one side and what I can only assume is the weight on the other (0.8/11½) and quite a bit of blue paint. There is also a distinct difference between the cutting edge and back end of the bit. I don't know if this is from differential tempering or perhaps the previous owner ruined the temper with an aggressive grinder. Anyways, here are the pics of the bit after the soak. I doubt there is enough information here for you guys to be able to tell me anything about it, if you can that would be great. Any tips or tricks or suggestions on how to proceed with the restoration would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading through my rant!

hatchet1_resize_zpsd1eea420.jpg

hatchet3_zps33505f8d.jpg

hatchetmm_copy_zps3fdce618.jpg

hatchet4_resize_zpsac2918c1.jpg


-Ulrich.
 
Last edited:
That's probably a differential hardning line you see on the bit. Often the back end of axes aren't heat-treated because it's a huge mass of metal.

Nice shape on that one, can't wait to see it finished!
 
Your off to a great start.

The difference that you are seeing in the metal is called the hamon line. It is were the heat treatment of the bit stops. Only the bit is hardened on a axe head.

An easy & cheap way to remove rust is to soak it in vinegar for 2 or 3 days, then wire brush it. It works! If you have an angle grinder, get a course twisted wire cup and it will make short work of removing the rust and leave a nice patina on your axe (no need to soak it).

Keep us updated with your progress.

Double Ott
 
the old timers knew how to use rust to their advantage , the rust helps to thin down the bit when you remove the rust you thin the bit. like Ott said, wire brush 'er and your'e good to go.

buzz
 
So here's where I'm at. This is after a little over 24 hours soaking in some apple cider vinegar and some very aggressive sanding with 80-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and wire brushing. I'm kind of wondering where to go from here, there are a few chips in the blade that I'd like to get out but I'm not sure I have the right idea on how to about with that. After that I suppose sharpening and hanging are the next steps!
hatchetsoft2_zpsada5dc2e.jpg

hatchetsoft3_zps9df99a8c.jpg

hatchetsoft1_zps04847137.jpg


And thanks for the tips/link to other thread.
 
The thing is basically good to go! I would rather have pitting than deformation. Yours basically has its original geometry. Almost looks like it was never hung and just forgotten somewhere to corrode. You just need to file/grind through those pits to establish a good new edge.
 
The thing is basically good to go! I would rather have pitting than deformation. Yours basically has its original geometry. Almost looks like it was never hung and just forgotten somewhere to corrode. You just need to file/grind through those pits to establish a good new edge.

Yeah, that's pretty much what I was thinking too. The only problem is, is that I don't really have a good idea on where to start with that. I've got a single cut bastard file that I was planning on using to take that edge back a bit... Just don't really have the proper technique for it!
 
You need to file a new edge on that axe. You'll have to clamp to the bench or hold in a vise to do the work. If you have a bench vise then use that. Otherwise you might want to hang it first and then clamp it down to the bench with some sturdy quick-grip squeeze clamps.

I prefer to do all the work on the axe before hanging it. But if you don't have a vise then that might not work for you.
 
Proper technique will come with practice. Search for the video "An Axe to Grind." It shows a bit. There are also a bunch of tutorials on YouTube, some better than others.
 
Back
Top