First Scandi grind...does it look OK?

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Sep 16, 2002
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It seems that the scandi ground knives are appealing to a lot of buyers, so I wanted to give it a try. I made a jig along the lines of the one posted here previously by Andy Roy, although I need to make mine a bit more refined if I end up doing more of these.

Anyway, I've not handled many scandi ground blades and I wanted to see if I'm on the right track here with my grind. Stock thickness is 3/16", and the edge is probably around .030" or so, which is where I thought I would leave it for HT.

I'm not sure how much you can tell just from photos, but thanks for any feedback!

P1020852.jpg

P1020848.jpg

P1020849.jpg
 
I've made quite a number of Scandi ground blades from O1, and before anyone told me not to, I ground and "stoned" them down to a fine cutting edge before HT. Since they weren't forged, there wasn't a lot of stress in the metal to make me worry about cracking. And I've never had a stock-removal, Scandi-ground blade made this way crack in HT.

Taking the edge all the way down to the final dimensions is a lot easier for me when the blade is annealed than after it has been hardened and tempered. Then again, I don't have any jigs and I do all my grinding freehand, so YMMV :)
 
Angle is ~ 12.5 degrees.

I could go thinner on the edge before HT, but I'd be scared to go all the way to sharp! The thinnest I've HT'd is probably .010-.015, but it's not a big deal for me to grind them more after HT either.
 
That looks great! I've been trying to freehand a Scandi (a chisel kata-kira-ba actually) and still can't get the turn on the belly right.

How did you cut an accurate wedge? I'm still trying to figure out how to make a jig besides freehanding it.
 
Daniel,

I had a neighbor with a miter saw help me cut a wedge of wood since I didn't have any way of doing it. I cobbled the rest of it together with stuff I had laying around, but I need try and fortify it if I'm going to make many more of these. The others I've seen posted here are much nicer than mine :(

Thanks for the feeback.
 
Daniel,

I had a neighbor with a miter saw help me cut a wedge of wood since I didn't have any way of doing it. I cobbled the rest of it together with stuff I had laying around, but I need try and fortify it if I'm going to make many more of these. The others I've seen posted here are much nicer than mine :(

Thanks for the feeback.

I just need to get a miter box and a hand saw probably, thanks for the great tip!
 
It looks good to me Paul. My next piece will be done a adjustable jig, sort of like Andy's but I want to be able to adjust the angle as needed.

Larry
 
Looks good.

BTW, you should always mention the steel type and HT method when asking advise on such topics.
For a carbon steel blade .030 is about right for the edge thickness pre-HT. For stainless, .010-.020 works well.
 
Thanks Stacy; the steel is 1080 and HT will be in a kiln with oil quench.

Mostly I just was wondering if my grind looked OK since it's the first time I've done this type of grind and I don't have a lot of experience handling knives of this type.
 
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