First serrated edge, advice needed

solphilos

solphilos

Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
1,076
Hey guys, looking to get my first Spyderedged knife (Tasman or Tasman Salt) and am torn between VG-10 and H1, but my primary concern is sharpening.

I love VG-10 and have no concern about maintaining it, but the work-hardened properties of H1 makes me wary. I've read how awesome and wear-resistant the H1 SE blades are, but how hard is it to sharpen those serrations?
Also, how many times can one sharpen before you reach steel that hasn't been work hardened?

I enjoy my VG-10 and the consistency it offers, but am very curious about the hype surrounding the performance of the H1.
I don't need the corrosion resistance, mostly interested in performance and ease of maintenance.
Any suggestions?
 
My understanding is that the H1 was developed primarily for its corrosion resistance. To me this says their are other steels(VG-10 etc)are more attuned to other factors than corrosion resistance in the extreme. If corrosion resistance is not a controlling need then I would think that a different steel would better suit your performance and maintenance needs. My H1 knives(I live close to the Pacific) have not suffered in performance after several sharpening's. Due to my arthritis and the superior job they do I send mine to Spyderco for sharpening and a tune up if needed.
 
I have no problem sharpening h1 serrations or vg10. I have no performance issues with using h1
Just takes a little practice, I like to use croc sticks and lansky triangke sharpener.

I was apprehensive about my first serrated but now 1 of my favourites.
As to how long you keep sharpening, I've been using my vg 10 for over 10 years and no problem.
If you are not sure, maybe start off with something cheaper like a dragonfly Vg10 or h1 works well in serrated h1.
Good luck
Look forward to you get on.
Mitch
 
Spyderco has nailed serrated pocket knives. Especially when paired with the Sharpmaker. Out-of-the-box, the serrations are "grabby" when cutting so don't judge them until you've sharpened the knife a few times. It gets better and better. I reluctantly shelved my serrated Delica warncliff in favor of a (new old stock) serrated Tuffram Worker that I've decided to EDC for the entire year as a new year's resolution (another subject). Going from the Delica to the new-in-box Worker, I was reminded how grabby NIB serrations are. I've been super busy and haven't sharpened the Worker, though it doesn't actually need sharpening yet (a shining testimony to Gin-1 blade steel I suppose). Once you've made a Spyderedge "your own" with the Sharpmaker, you'll wonder why you ever carried a plain edge blade.
 
mitch13 said:
I have no problem sharpening h1 serrations or vg10. I have no performance issues with using h1
Just takes a little practice, I like to use croc sticks and lansky triangke sharpener.

I was apprehensive about my first serrated but now 1 of my favourites.
As to how long you keep sharpening, I've been using my vg 10 for over 10 years and no problem.
If you are not sure, maybe start off with something cheaper like a dragonfly Vg10 or h1 works well in serrated h1.
Good luck
Look forward to you get on.
Mitch
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Thanks, I've been thinking it over and am going to get the Dragonfly, either the Salt SE or VG-10 plain edge haven't decided which. I have lots of knives and none serrated so I am strongly leaning towards the Salt, and something tells me that a narrow cutting edge would only benefit with serrations.

Harry Callahan said:
Spyderco has nailed serrated pocket knives. Especially when paired with the Sharpmaker. Out-of-the-box, the serrations are "grabby" when cutting so don't judge them until you've sharpened the knife a few times. It gets better and better. I reluctantly shelved my serrated Delica warncliff in favor of a (new old stock) serrated Tuffram Worker that I've decided to EDC for the entire year as a new year's resolution (another subject). Going from the Delica to the new-in-box Worker, I was reminded how grabby NIB serrations are. I've been super busy and haven't sharpened the Worker, though it doesn't actually need sharpening yet (a shining testimony to Gin-1 blade steel I suppose). Once you've made a Spyderedge "your own" with the Sharpmaker, you'll wonder why you ever carried a plain edge blade.
Click to expand...
I'm assuming the points of the serrations dull or round off with use making it less grabby?
I don't have a sharpmaker, but I have a tapered diamond rod that should do the trick. I'll probably purchase some crock sticks as well.
 
If you have a sharp maker serrations are easy. Also if you’re going serrated go H1 if possible. It’s tough,durable and the rust resistance is a bonus. The edge is already work hardened through the serration process.
 
rycen said:
If you have a sharp maker serrations are easy. Also if you’re going serrated go H1 if possible. It’s tough,durable and the rust resistance is a bonus. The edge is already work hardened through the serration process.
Click to expand...
I just pulled the trigger on a Dragonfly Salt SE, I've read nothing but great things about the H1 serrations, can't wait to try it for myself.
 
One concern I have with serrated blades is that they are meant to be basically pocket chainsaws. They are not meant to push cut anything, nor do detailed carving. Sawing motion is more suited (in my opinion) to serrated edges.

And sawing motion is better acomplished with longer edge length. Therefore, I would NOT recommend getting one of the small serrated spydercos (Delica, Dragonfly, etc.), nor would I choose a 50/50 blade.

I would go directly to full size folders such as Endura, Police, Rescue 93mm (if you can do withouth a point), Salt, Caribbean (I only wish! beautiful knife), etc.

I have an old serrated Delica, 50/50 endura, 50/50 Tenacious and they do not compare to my 93mm Rescue and Spyderhawk Salt Sprint (ok, quite specialty blade).

Go big or go home. And don't worry about VG10 or H1, both sharpen well in the Sharpmaker.

Mikel
 
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