first sharpening after the factory edge has dulled?

S

SR_matt

Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
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hello all,
ok i never have really put a great edge on a knife my self, i have used a lot of different systems (stones, lanskey system, pull through type sharpeners, diamond rod type, spinning stone devices) and the edge always comes out ok but never great. i am planing on getting a sharpmaker in the next few months so that might prove to end my dilemma but i have just some thoughts im not sure about when it comes to any system.

i know how im supposed to sharpen and i know what is supposed to be the "better" systems/processes over the "junkier" ones but going from the factory edge to a first sharpening how much more work should i really expect to have to put into it?

with something like the sharpmaker should i expect to only have to so a little more than a normal touch up to establish my new edge?

maybe im just thinking about this to much. is there any more difficulty? i know some dont even use a knife until they redo their own edge.

thanks for any insight on this, i may just be not giving any version enough attention and practice so ya maybe im just rambling incoherently now

thanks
-matt
 
If you keep the same angle, with a sharpmaker, it won't take too much time. The problem is haveing to put a thinner edge on the blade that has a thicker one. It will take forever with the SS. If you keep the factory edge, basically you are just fixing it.

Don't let it get dull and it won't be a problem. With the SS, you will like the edges:D:thumbup:
 
Just me, I think most folks sharpen knives that do not need sharpening; just like most folks clean a gun too much.

The last 10 Case Peanuts, with CV blades, were that good out of the box. So were the 4 Slimline Trappers and 5 Sodbuster Jrs.
All CV blades.

Stropped only. We do not use compounds on strops, and we do not do Doo-Dad Sharpeners.

These Case knives were like others over the years, they did not need anything, just clean the factory polish compound out, lube pivots, and strop.
Blue Jeans, old belt, the back of a legal pad.

I have yet to put my Peanut on a stone, so have many others.
And I and they use a darn knife.

One gal showed how to make emergency shelter and make a fire with her Case YH CV Barehead Trapper.
It took her about a minute to use a 3" Norton India coarse /fine Sportsman's Stone ( like a IB6 just smaller) and strop on her jeans and good to go after all she did with that knife.

I and mine own knives, they do not own us.

We use knives, and have better things to do than mess with doo-dads, doo-dads one is not going to haul on a hiking, or canoe trip, or on the back forty on a farm, ranch or wherever.

We don't do micro that and whatever else is the current rage.
Sharp is sharp, and one sharpens to task. CV allows us a much finer and sharper edge , that lasts longer than stainless.
Stainless that was about a mfg's equipment not getting hurt and not the consumer getting a real using knife.

Just me and my kind...
 
Most guys like a "thinner" edge. (or narrower angle) So when they sharpen them the first time they set the edge angles lower, this is the cause for the extra work.


If you can match the factory angles it won't take much at all.

Not letting a blade get *dull* by frequent stropping and minor light touch-ups will save some time in the long run (I think, never kept track) but will definitely make keep your blades lasting longer. (150 years instead of 75years..lol)
 
ok, thanks a lot.

ya i guess i just am really wanting that whole perfect razor sharp knife that stays that way longer than is physically possible. and seeing as how i do have a few utility razor knives i can rely on those for when i need a razor sharp blade. i also think its just part of the not wanting to screw up what i payed for where as if it was a knife i made i would just go "hmm, crap i messed up, eh what ever ill fix it" as apposed to the "crap i screwed up something that was right to start with"

all this talk of stropping on jeans, maybe im weird but i dont wear jeans ever, i own one pair that i think i ve worn once in the last year and that was right after i got them. is it just the way the denim is or should it work on other cotton based cloths?

thanks
-matt
 
My take...
Sharp is sharp for task, I am not worried about looking perfect and passing an inspection with a micrometer.

Old time barbers put those razors flat on a stone, as the razors spine was at the correct angle to edge for that thin edge.
Carbon steel was at lower inclusive angle than stainless...

Stropping was on a dry strop and the trick is coming up 180* to protect the edge when lifting to head the other direction.

Oh I can sharpen with anything, how raised, as one needs to be able to use what is handy. Adapt Improvise Overcome.
Emery, Morgan, Convex, Appleseed, and whatever else...

Survival bit, use a bare spot log with dirt on it...

Freehand with a 3" or smaller stone, using little circles , and strop on jeans, casual pants, back of legal pad, my hand, hard wood of a desk...

My edge is a thin bright line against the patina of a CV, 1095 carbon or the 1075 of a Opinel.

Tru-Sharp of Case , Buck, Spyderco, and whatever else I have messed with, if I catch the light against that "nasty old stainless steel" I have the same edge.

Tornadoes hit, we are way down the property in wee morning hours, and I and mine used 3" Norton stones.
I sharpened a Buck 110 and Spyderco Delica plain edge.

Serious is serious and those folks needed a sharp knife. It did not take me long to assist the two folks with the 110 and Delica, and the lady with me doing a ...Heck if I know, expensive tack-tickle knife.
Fifteen year old gal showed up and did the SAK Pioneer...
She born a free hander...

Point being, users need sharp edges, we are not doing cutting contests and the folks that do those contests will tell one, those edges are not for everyday real use.

One gets to a point, the edges look good just by doing, and consistency is developed.

Still, most folks remove too much metal. They go past "sharp" too many times trying to look pretty, and thus remove too much metal and wear out knives trying to look pretty - IMO/IME
 
It depends on how sharp and what angle the knife is out of the factory. If it's sharp enough for you, don't worry about it until it gets dull. If, when you do go to sharpen it, the edge is too obtuse, I'd suggest leaning one of your coarser stones or Lansky stone-holder-assemblies against the sharpmaker rod in the relevant setting, and using that to re-bevel the edge.

Other than that, just follow the instructions on the DVD!
 
You could use the Lansky to match the angle to the Sharpmaker.

A Lansky or bench stones will work. Are you removing enough material to make the bevels meet? Are you matching the angle of the bevel with the Lansky or the stones?

Try the sharpie on the bevel to ensure that you are matching the angle.
 
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