First sheath

[Rotte]

OK, I'm going to ask for a little mercy here. I finished up my first sheath this evening and thought I'd post some pictures. Keep in mind, it my FIRST sheath!

I love this knife.

I don't know what it is called; and yeah, it looks a little worn, but the scales are tight and the blade will wipe away hair with ease. The scales started out life as Green Micarta, now they are a sort of muddy black. But the semi-sheep's foot design is just plain handy, all the time, every time. I think this design may have preceded the UNK, not sure. I know it looks a bit tatty, but it has been carried quite a bit in pocket and pack.

The original sheath was a sturdy olive kydex. I added some inner tube pieces to keep a ferro rod, small light, repair needle, and True North button compass attached.

While the kydex has worked just fine, I found that moisture could collect on the interior and cause some minor rusting. I also wanted to keep the sheath on my belt more often. So, I thought I'd give sheath making a try. Whoa! Way more difficult than I imagined. I think I had the leather too damp while cutting and sewing. The pieces seemed to become distorted quite easily.

Here's the result:

Comparison shot:

So what did I learn? Well it's clear I'm not Scott Gossman. And it would probably be a good idea to get a little instruction in sheath making if you want to go pro (maybe Scott could post a few pointers....). But this sheath seems functional and sturdy. I kinda wet-molded the sheath to the knife and the finger groove 'snaps' into place in the sheath--it works! I'm glad I gave it a try. Really. :chargrined:

 

[geargeek]

Hey that looks pretty good to me; it does the job!

 

[Rockywolf]

Looking pretty good, Rotte. Congrats!

 

[Gossman Knives]

Not too bad for your first one. It took me a long time with so many changes to how I make sheaths to get them to where they are now. I'm still learning and haven't gotten fancy but they work. Most important is too buy the best quality leather you can get. 8/9 oz. is what I use. I stopped wet forming with water. Takes so long to dry. I wet form while the dye is still damp after the sheath is made. I use a dremel, 3/32 drill bit to drill out the thread holes. Marking them with the stitching wheel. I also use a belt grinder to even up the edges.
BTW, that knife is the WUK (wharncliffe utility knife)
Scott

 

[Rotte]

Thanks guys.

Now I remember it is a WUK! Great Design. Do you make many of these anymore?

 

[kyturkey]

Looks good for a first sheath, and nice WUK. I don't remember seeing that model before.

I've done three leather sheaths, each one is a little better than the previous, I think. Not near as nice as a lot of them on here, but they are functional.

Scott has some good tips, I'd agree with. Leather quality does effect the outcome. I mark my spacing then use a drill press for the thread holes, and a belt sander works great to even up the edges.

 

[Rotte]

I should have used a wider margin on the edges. There isn't enough space to really take it to the sander. (I did touch it up with the sander, but it could be better for sure.) I also marked my stitching first, but as I manipulated the damp leather, the marks disappeared. I think the leather was too wet. Next time I'll keep the leather a bit drier. A drill press would be a good idea. I used an awl to make the holes for the belt loop and a freehanded Dremel with a 1/16" bit to make the holes for the sheath.

The WUK is great. I've had it a few years now. I think the tip of the WUK is easier to use as compared to the PSK because it is below the midline. And the functional cutting egde is a bit longer. Not that I don't love my PSKs too, I just find I carry the WUK more frequently. I've always liked the Sheepsfoot or Wharncliffe design.