Comeuppance
Fixed Blade EDC Emisssary
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 4,765
I've been eyeing SnGs and SMFs ever since my price range on knives I'll actually use slipped past $200. Granted, Strider knives are typically at least 50% more than that even second-hand, but it's something I'm considering these days. I've been saving up, selling some of my knives, and doing a little research. Besides, the second-hand market for them seems to be great, so, if I get a good deal on one, I could resell it without losing much (if any) money if I end up not liking it.
Background: I typically carry one stocky "hard use" knife, and a thinner knife for finer cutting. These days, it's a Gayle Bradley or a Southard for my "hard use" knife. They're very nice, but I'm looking to branch out a bit.
I like the idea of having a 3V, Z-Wear, or 110v blade - how do those compare, in use, to M4 or 204P? IIRC, M4 has better edge retention than all three, but isn't nearly as corrosion or impact resistant. Heck, I've seen videos of custom 3V knives being pounded through steel pipes with no chipping or appreciable edge damage. I realize that may depend entirely on the heat treat, but it's a good sign in my book; most of my knives would be powder after tests like that.
In anticipation of the question: "why do you need a knife that can be pounded through a steel pipe?"
Answer: I don't. I do, however, like to have absolute confidence in my beefier knives. I know my Gayle Bradley isn't going to chip or close on me. I know my Southard can take almost anything I throw at it. If it can take horrendous abuse far beyond what I will ever throw at it, I can use it for my purposes without any concern whatsoever. That's not something I can say for the countless chipped/rolled/broken AUS8, 8Cr13MoV, S30V, and mystery stainless knives I've had - and that's why I'm now very picky about blade steels.
Anyway, back on subject: I've seen a lot of complaints about Strider's quality control. Lock slippage, blade play, and the like. I also see the term "new lockup" thrown around fairly often - do their knives with the newer lock geometry still have the same problems?
I also have some questions about their warranty and customer service. I've seen mixed reports of how good it is - let's say I get a second-hand strider and it has bladeplay or lock slippage - will or have they fixed such things for secondhand owners? Were they timely? Did they do a good job? I've heard the fit and finish isn't on par with the price range. My aforementioned Spydercos have astounding fit and finish for roughly 1/2 the price, and I don't like the idea of having to spend 15 bucks plus my original shipping costs to have them fix a problem that shouldn't have been there in the first place. I've never sent a knife in for service, and don't want to have to start with a knife that cost over a third of a grand.
As far as handle materials go - I really like the look of Gunnar Grips and DGGs, but I'm very picky about pocket retention - which texture/handle material provides good pocket retention without damaging the pockets? The G10 on my Tenacious is perfect, and I've always had to sand down Kershaw's G10 to keep it from being an issue - if that gives you any idea as to what I'm looking for.
Finally, the model - The SnG is a good size, but is the SMF unwieldy at all? One of the reasons I haven't picked up a Spyderco Tuff is that huge stupid unsharpened portion of the blade. Striders seem to have a much more reasonably-proportioned choil, but I worry about control issues when the cutting edge is that far away from the handle.
I know this is kind of a long post, but, hey, it's $300+ and would be my first experience with the company. I humbly request a tiny bit of BladeForums' wealth of knowledge and experience
Background: I typically carry one stocky "hard use" knife, and a thinner knife for finer cutting. These days, it's a Gayle Bradley or a Southard for my "hard use" knife. They're very nice, but I'm looking to branch out a bit.
I like the idea of having a 3V, Z-Wear, or 110v blade - how do those compare, in use, to M4 or 204P? IIRC, M4 has better edge retention than all three, but isn't nearly as corrosion or impact resistant. Heck, I've seen videos of custom 3V knives being pounded through steel pipes with no chipping or appreciable edge damage. I realize that may depend entirely on the heat treat, but it's a good sign in my book; most of my knives would be powder after tests like that.
In anticipation of the question: "why do you need a knife that can be pounded through a steel pipe?"
Answer: I don't. I do, however, like to have absolute confidence in my beefier knives. I know my Gayle Bradley isn't going to chip or close on me. I know my Southard can take almost anything I throw at it. If it can take horrendous abuse far beyond what I will ever throw at it, I can use it for my purposes without any concern whatsoever. That's not something I can say for the countless chipped/rolled/broken AUS8, 8Cr13MoV, S30V, and mystery stainless knives I've had - and that's why I'm now very picky about blade steels.
Anyway, back on subject: I've seen a lot of complaints about Strider's quality control. Lock slippage, blade play, and the like. I also see the term "new lockup" thrown around fairly often - do their knives with the newer lock geometry still have the same problems?
I also have some questions about their warranty and customer service. I've seen mixed reports of how good it is - let's say I get a second-hand strider and it has bladeplay or lock slippage - will or have they fixed such things for secondhand owners? Were they timely? Did they do a good job? I've heard the fit and finish isn't on par with the price range. My aforementioned Spydercos have astounding fit and finish for roughly 1/2 the price, and I don't like the idea of having to spend 15 bucks plus my original shipping costs to have them fix a problem that shouldn't have been there in the first place. I've never sent a knife in for service, and don't want to have to start with a knife that cost over a third of a grand.
As far as handle materials go - I really like the look of Gunnar Grips and DGGs, but I'm very picky about pocket retention - which texture/handle material provides good pocket retention without damaging the pockets? The G10 on my Tenacious is perfect, and I've always had to sand down Kershaw's G10 to keep it from being an issue - if that gives you any idea as to what I'm looking for.
Finally, the model - The SnG is a good size, but is the SMF unwieldy at all? One of the reasons I haven't picked up a Spyderco Tuff is that huge stupid unsharpened portion of the blade. Striders seem to have a much more reasonably-proportioned choil, but I worry about control issues when the cutting edge is that far away from the handle.
I know this is kind of a long post, but, hey, it's $300+ and would be my first experience with the company. I humbly request a tiny bit of BladeForums' wealth of knowledge and experience
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