First Three Knives (repost)

Joined
Aug 8, 2020
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15
Hey everyone! I accidentally posted this in a different section.. meant to post here so I just copied and pasted!

A little intro..
I've done a fair bit of reading on this forum and posted a question a while back before I got my shop set up. Other than that, I've been quiet.
I started researching knife making about five months ago. At the time, my wife and I lived in an apartment and I had no where to set up shop, but I had a very long list of tools and supplies to purchase once I had a garage to use. A few months later, we put an offer down on a house and the offer was accepted, so I ordered literally everything on my list within two weeks. So about three weeks ago, we closed on the house and moved in and I set up shop in the garage!

So here are my first three knives!
They're all 1084 heat treated in a propane forge to non-magnetic and soaked for a minute longer and quenched in 130° canola oil, then tempered at 400° for two one-hour cycles.
I don't remember what wood I used in the handles. I'm unsure of what a few of the wood materials even are. The spacers are all G10.
These photos were all taken prior to sharpening, but you can tell they're all very thick behind the soon-to-be edge. The third knife is much better but still thick.

The first two actually perform decently on the cutting board. I just tried the third one tonight and it did not.. it was pretty discouraging. But as it's only knife #3, I'm just telling myself I need more practice and to keep my expectations low.

In case the images don't post in order, my very first attempt is the crazy-heeled blade with white spacers. Second attempt is the santoku. Third attempt is the big Kramer style chefs knife.

Any feedback, good or bad, is much appreciated. I'm looking forward to spending more time on the forum. My next knives will be Wa handle attempts!

Thanks for looking,

Seth

https://imgur.com/a/MPeSfoU

Edit: The photos were populating with a question mark, so here's the link to the imgur page. Let me know if it doesn't work!
 
Looks good to me. As far as TBE goes, get yourself a caliper and grind until your blade is around .002 thick about 1/4 up from the edge.
 
:thumbsup:
You don t want that there , sooner or later someone will get hurt :D
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:thumbsup:
You don t want that there , sooner or later someone will get hurt :D
hFxhprs.jpg

SHdfNSo.jpg

qadiEut.jpg

spKWQpK.jpg

lZA8xp1.jpg

HIG8LRz.jpg

XzCN0Nq.jpg

Yeah, that's all I've heard about that heel is how dangerous it is. And I totally agree after using it a few times! My dish towels are suffering as well lol. How did you get these images to post in the thread like that??
 
One aesthetic thing is that when you have a nice long hand rubbed blade finish, always make sure the exposed tang has a matching scratch pattern/grit (or higher.) Dont have grinder scratches perpendicular to the spine with a handrubbed finish running lengthwise down the blade or else youll have some odd scratch transition to the blade spine.

Your handle stacking looks fantastic!
 
Yeah, that's all I've heard about that heel is how dangerous it is. And I totally agree after using it a few times! My dish towels are suffering as well lol. How did you get these images to post in the thread like that??
If you are careful about temperatures, you can still take that knife to the grinder and flatten out that heel.

I have re-ground the bevels on a couple knives well after they had the handle put on them. After you get a little more practice, you should be able to take those knives back to the grinder and thin out that edge. For me .... it was mostly learning patience - it takes me something like 2-4 hours (depending on the length of the blade) to carefully work down to a behind the edge thickness of 0.006 or less. Needing to make sure the edge does not overheat just makes for slower going (unless you have a mist system, which I do not).
 
If you are careful about temperatures, you can still take that knife to the grinder and flatten out that heel.

I have re-ground the bevels on a couple knives well after they had the handle put on them. After you get a little more practice, you should be able to take those knives back to the grinder and thin out that edge. For me .... it was mostly learning patience - it takes me something like 2-4 hours (depending on the length of the blade) to carefully work down to a behind the edge thickness of 0.006 or less. Needing to make sure the edge does not overheat just makes for slower going (unless you have a mist system, which I do not).

I have to be super careful as I'm working with a 2x42, no variable speed. It gets these blades hot quick! With a mist system, is that something I would set up pointed directly to the blade while I'm grinding? I've had something similar set up for pet cages (sounds weird but seems like it might be the same concept)
 
When I use a spray system I spray it right on the transition from belt to blade. I use it to cool the blade and wet the belt slightly before it goes under the steel.
 
Great looking knives. You did fantastic with the handles. The first handle looks like Bocote and the 3rd look like purple heart.

I don't heat treat in a forge but soaking for 1 minute after non magnetic seems a bit long to me. Maybe someone can comment who has experience.

Real use testing is the best judge on how the blade will perform. I made an early knife with a heel like that. Man does it slice a thumb open fast.
 
One aesthetic thing is that when you have a nice long hand rubbed blade finish, always make sure the exposed tang has a matching scratch pattern/grit (or higher.) Dont have grinder scratches perpendicular to the spine with a handrubbed finish running lengthwise down the blade or else youll have some odd scratch transition to the blade spine.

Your handle stacking looks fantastic!

I missed this reply somehow! Thanks for the tip! My current project is for a friend. I'm going for a nice polished spine and tang and choil. Eager to see how it turns out.
 
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