first time damascus: 5160 and what?

[Bladewind]

alright, so yeah, first post. i've been wanting to get into bladesmithing for about a year now, done a few hand filed knives (more like shivs), nothing special, but i've recently enrolled in a class at college that has all of the equipment that i could dream of, and in my often reckless style i have decided to go all out, i've got some 5160 on hand that i am going to use for the blade, and i want to try my hand at a bit of pattern welding for the bolster and pommel of the blade (even i am not reckless enough to try a Damascus blade my first time around forging). so my question is: what would be the best steel to pair with 5160?
thanks guys.

 

[i4Marc]

For pattern welded blades a simple low alloy steel like 1084 is often paired with 15N20. The nickel content in the 15N20 is what resists the etch and gives you the bright spots in the finished piece. I think it would work fine with 5160 as well if you are using it for bolsters and pommels.

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

5160 isn't the easiest to weld, but 15n20 would good. If I were you, I'd slow down and get some 1084 and 15n20 from Aldo .

 

[Bladewind]

Thanks for the responses guys, i know I'm getting in a bit over my head, but such is my style. Ill give 5160/15n20 a try and hope for the best. Ill keep you posted.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

In many opinions, the best mix is O-1 and 15N20. They have closely matched HT and working specs. They weld together quite well.

If you aren't experienced with the process, start with three 4" long pieces of your metal - O-1/15n20/O-1. 1/4" O-1 and 1/8" 15N20 make a good mix. Weld the ends together with the TIG/MIG/stick and then practice forge welding and drawing the piece. When it is drawn to twice its length, hot cut almost through, quickly wire brush clean, flip over on itself, flux lightly and re-heat,...and weld together again. Repeat about six or seven folds. This will make a simple random pattern 196 or 392 layer bar for a blade.

If you have forge welded before:
Cut four 4" long pieces of 1.5X.25" O-1 and one that is 8-12" long.
Cut four 4" pieces of 1.5X.125 15N20.
Clean up, stack, clamp, tack weld ( stick, TIG, or MIG). The long bar goes in the middle, and provides a grip for the tongs. Z-box or U-box tongs are the best for the task. Wolf jaw tongs are great for handling the billet when there is no handle attached.

For knife fittings, either draw and stack the above billet two times, to get 36 layers, or do that and then twist the billet to get a bold curved stripe guard and butt cap.

Whatever you do, read up on forge welding and drawing damascus. If twisting, the billet has to be forged square and solid, then octagon, then round, then twisted. After the twist, clean up on the grinder and forge back to a bar.