Recommendation? First Time Sharpener

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Branden O'Donnell

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Hi everyone,

Looking to purchase my first few knives soon and I have been advised to look into sharpening.
Please recommend a good starting point.

Knives I plan to purchase (and hopefully sharpen without ruining):
Mora Companion
Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Huntsman Walnut
Benchmade Griptilian S30V

Starting budget: ~$75.
I can buy pieces over time. Currently shopping on bladehq, so if the pieces are available there that's a bonus for me :)

If that is not enough information please let me know and I am happy to answer!
Thanks in advance!
 
For about $60, this is what I'd start with, but there's a lot to learn using this stone and plate. If you decide to go with something like this, you might want to check back here for the details before first use.

Norton jb8 crystolon. $20.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Norton-Combination-Bench-Stone--26376

Honing oil for the Norton. $3.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Nathan-s-Honing-Oil-for-Benchstones--30492

Eze Lap 66f diamond plate. $24.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--EZ-Lap-Diamond-Pocket-Sharpener--26386
 
I've used and tried everything and for me the Sypderco Sharpmaker is the best option. You can buy stones for it that are rougher than what it comes with, and finer as well.

I have used with my larger blades and smaller pocket knives, etc.

Gets them all super sharp....shaving hair sharp.

And that's good enough in my book.
 
Last edited:
jpm2 said:
For about $60, this is what I'd start with, but there's a lot to learn using this stone and plate. If you decide to go with something like this, you might want to check back here for the details before first use.

Norton jb8 crystolon. $20.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Norton-Combination-Bench-Stone--26376

Honing oil for the Norton. $3.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Nathan-s-Honing-Oil-for-Benchstones--30492

Eze Lap 66f diamond plate. $24.95
https://www.bladehq.com/item--EZ-Lap-Diamond-Pocket-Sharpener--26386
Click to expand...

Is the diamond plate required for the benchmade blade or just to get a finer edge?
Is there a big learning curve for the plates? Sorry for the basic questions, never sharpened before.

Centuriator said:
I've used and tried everything and for me the Sypderco Sharpmaker is the best option. You can buy stones for it that are rougher than what it comes with, and finer as well.

I have used with my larger blades and smaller pocket knives, etc.

Gets them all super sharp....shaving hair sharp.

And that's good enough in my book.
Click to expand...

This seems to be a more modern way of sharpening. Do you find this easier than stones?
I see they have a DVD as well that's nice!
 
Branden O'Donnell said:
Is the diamond plate required for the benchmade blade or just to get a finer edge?
Is there a big learning curve for the plates? Sorry for the basic questions, never sharpened before.
Click to expand...
Not required, just recommended so you'll have an abrasive that will cut everything, and a sharpening surface you'll never have to flatten.
The main things with diamond plates are, they need breaking in, and never use heavy pressure or high angles on them.

It looks like you've settled on the sharpmaker, which is an excellent choice, but not sure how it's going work out with a scandi grind.
I recommend you include the diamond or cbn abrasives for your sharpmaker.
 
Since the Mora Companion has a micro bevel the rods should work just stick to fine rods, I don't know what grind is on the griptilian. I use Norton combination India bench stones, I think diamond plates remove too much metal; either way there usually is not too long a learning curve associated with freehand bench stone or sharpmaker sharpening.
 
Benchmade claims the blade are ground to 15-17 degrees per side (dps) but I rarely see them below 20. That’s where I set mine although I am gonna reset my most commonly used mini grip to 15 and see how it acts.
 
Squid61 said:
Since the Mora Companion has a micro bevel the rods should work just stick to fine rods, I don't know what grind is on the griptilian. I use Norton combination India bench stones, I think diamond plates remove too much metal; either way there usually is not too long a learning curve associated with freehand bench stone or sharpmaker sharpening.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression they had a zero grind like my old ones, interesting.

Diamond plates definitely have irregular scratches when they're new. I find after broke in, the abrasives are more the same height and don't dig as deep any more, and give a much more consistent pattern. It can take a while to get some of them leveled out.

When I want to remove a lot of metal fast, I use the coarse side of a norton jb8. It's faster than any of my diamond plates.
 
jpm2 said:
I was under the impression they had a zero grind like my old ones, interesting.

Diamond plates definitely have irregular scratches when they're new. I find after broke in, the abrasives are more the same height and don't dig as deep any more, and give a much more consistent pattern. It can take a while to get some of them leveled out.

When I want to remove a lot of metal fast, I use the coarse side of a norton jb8. It's faster than any of my diamond plates.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure but I think all their "bushcraft" and utility blades have a micro bevel, I know the Companion does because I have one. It's a good idea for camping and utility knives for the added edge strength.
 
jpm2 said:
Not required, just recommended so you'll have an abrasive that will cut everything, and a sharpening surface you'll never have to flatten.
The main things with diamond plates are, they need breaking in, and never use heavy pressure or high angles on them.

It looks like you've settled on the sharpmaker, which is an excellent choice, but not sure how it's going work out with a scandi grind.
I recommend you include the diamond or cbn abrasives for your sharpmaker.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Won't be checking out for another week or so, but it does "look" easier lol. I think bladehq has a diamond add on. I might pick it up next month if you guys feel it will give a better edge on the mora (it will probably see the most action)

TraditionalMedicinal said:
I'm in a similar situation, I'm thinking of getting a lansky
Click to expand...
Not familiar with Lansky, is there a benefit? Seems similarly priced to the sharpmaker.

Squid61 said:
I'm not sure but I think all their "bushcraft" and utility blades have a micro bevel, I know the Companion does because I have one. It's a good idea for camping and utility knives for the added edge strength.
Click to expand...
Do you use the sharpmaker on the companion?
 
Branden O'Donnell said:
Thanks! Won't be checking out for another week or so, but it does "look" easier lol. I think bladehq has a diamond add on. I might pick it up next month if you guys feel it will give a better edge on the mora (it will probably see the most action)
Click to expand...

The diamond/cbn remove metal much faster than the alumina rods that come with the sharpmaker. This will come in handy when setting/resetting bevels, and if the blade gets very dull. The default rods (brown & white) to me, are for tuning up an edge that is already in decent shape, but not quite as sharp or refined as you'd like.

The better edge will depend on how refined you want, diamond being the coarsest, white being the finest. With the mora, which I think is used mostly for wood carving, I'd prefer a more refined edge for push cutting. So no, I don't think it would give a better edge on the mora for that purpose. The others maybe so, coarser for more/longer slicing aggression.

The same rules that apply to the diamond and cbn plates, also apply to these rods for the sharpmaker, they need breaking in just like plates do. Don't use heavy pressure or high angles.
 
Do you use the sharpmaker on the companion?[/QUOTE]
No, all my sharpening is done with a Norton India bench stone, Spyderco fine ceramic bench stone and a strop. Usually I only need to go back to the strop and only infrequently go as far back as the fine ceramic.
 
jpm2 said:
The diamond/cbn remove metal much faster than the alumina rods that come with the sharpmaker. This will come in handy when setting/resetting bevels, and if the blade gets very dull. The default rods (brown & white) to me, are for tuning up an edge that is already in decent shape, but not quite as sharp or refined as you'd like.

The better edge will depend on how refined you want, diamond being the coarsest, white being the finest. With the mora, which I think is used mostly for wood carving, I'd prefer a more refined edge for push cutting. So no, I don't think it would give a better edge on the mora for that purpose. The others maybe so, coarser for more/longer slicing aggression.

The same rules that apply to the diamond and cbn plates, also apply to these rods for the sharpmaker, they need breaking in just like plates do. Don't use heavy pressure or high angles.
Click to expand...

Is the diamond for when the knife becomes "too dull"? Sorry I am really trying to understand. I appreciate your explanations!

Squid61 said:
No, all my sharpening is done with a Norton India bench stone, Spyderco fine ceramic bench stone and a strop. Usually I only need to go back to the strop and only infrequently go as far back as the fine ceramic.
Click to expand...

Is that because you keep your knives quite sharp?
 
I would go with the bench stones. Personally I have not had great success with the sharpmaker or lansky. That being said others do quite well with the different systems.
 
I’m not sure about the mora but for a real refined edge on the S30v you will need a diamond to cut through the carbides. My starter set was a washita 3 stone set. It has a silicon carbide stone and 2 natural stones. Still my favorite to work with. For the few super steels I have I use the DMT duo sharp. For heavy reprofiling or repair I start with a manticore from baryonex. Great stone. You may want to get a couple cheap knives to practice sharpening on.
 
I would go with the JB- 8 a 2 grit crystolon stone. Its just way simple. But some cannot free hand. Thus a system is needed with 4 or 5 stones. DM
 
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