First time with Sharpmaker

J

jpar247

Joined
Jan 12, 2010
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14
Hey guys, great forums you guys have here. I got a Sharpmaker today and I'm wanting to sharpen some of my blades.

What's the best way to start with a Kershaw Blur and SOG Seal Pup. After reading thru these forums I've figured these are the best knifes, but are just the start of my collection.

I watched the DVD but dont know if I should go with 40 or 30...

Thanks for your help, and again awesome set of forums!
 
Greetings jpar247: A common suggestion is to practice on at least two to three "beater knives" before you try sharpening the Blur or Seal Pup. USE THE SHARPIE MARKER TRICK. Although the rods are held at fixed angles using the SharpMaker is still free hand sharpening and requires developing some muscle memory and precision in repetition. The Seal pup in AUS6 or AUS8 should sharpen easily and take a very fine edge. If the Blur is 13C26 steel it should be largely the same. If the Blur is S30V,it will take MUCH longer than many people initially expect in reprofiling it to 30 degrees. IMHO an edge bevel of 30 degrees with a micro bevel of 40 degrees is a good place to start with the knives mentioned. The odds are the knives came from the factory with at LEAST a 40 degree bevel. The bigger the factory angle ~ the longer it will take to get it back down to 30 degrees. Read the instructions cover to cover. Clean the ceramic rods when you feel the abrasive effect degrade. When drawing the blade across the rods, do not let the tip slip off the rod. Stop short of drawing the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch of blade across the rods. Treat the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch as a separate blade. Use only the flats of the stones on the last fraction of the blade tip. Be patient. Precision and consistency will pay off with a uniform bevel that is easy to maintain. The first use (reprofiling) may take a LONG time. OldDude1
 
OldDude1 has provided some excellent advice! Well done.

My suggestion is to use the Sharpmaker on some kitchen paring (3" models) knives as your first sharpening project. They are usually very thin steel, and pretty soft so it is easy to have success quickly. Then move onto the rest of your kitchen knives.

I had a Seal Pup for a few years, and mine was really thick in the edge (thickness of material and obtuse edge angle). Even though it is probably AUS6 or AUS8 it will still take a relatively long time to reprofile, so be prepared.

Enjoy your new tool! It is very capable.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I've pretty much ran into most of those points last night. The funny thing is I started on a beater w/ 440SS and it became shaving and paper sharp but dulled out and couldn't cut paper.

I then tried a 8" kitchen knife that has spent its whole life being sharpened by rod so who knows at what angle that thing is at. I worked on it for about an hour and couldn't get it any sharper then it was before.

This is probably a stupid question, but how long should i keep it on the brown sticks?

I have been using the sharpie trick and seem to be hitting the edge all the time. Kinda sad the sharpest knife I sharpened was my beater, guess it kinda makes sense in a way tho.
 
I also picked up some 400 and 600 emory sheets, just wondering if i should try wrapping a cpl stones with the 400 to speed up the re-profiling?
 
Usually, you sharpen at the V side. To do the edge you can see use the \ / side. The V side will do the razor edge and the \ / will do the edge you can see. I use just the corners of my stones, start with brown (gray) and then white. You can test to see if you have a burr by scraping the edge on your fingernail. Imagine trying to smooth paint across your fingernail, pulling the spine towards you. If it scrapes off nail, then you have a burr. Run that side across the white stone ever so lightly and test again. Then test the other side.
 
Reprofile the main bevel to 15 degrees,then put a micro bevel on the edge at 20 degrees.The key is to use both the angles on the sharpmaker like Sal says to do in the dvd.

Good luck.
 
jpar247 said:
I also picked up some 400 and 600 emory sheets, just wondering if i should try wrapping a cpl stones with the 400 to speed up the re-profiling?
Click to expand...

Yes wrapping the sharpmaker stones with sand paper will drastically speed up the reprofiling time.
 
If you go back and forth from one side to the other you might not pick up much of a burr. Another method is to just sharpen one side until a burr forms and the the other untill the burr moves to the opposite side. Then alternate your strokes to remove the burr. This method has been discussed before with many different opinions. As mentioned above by OldDude1 try not to run off the ceramic with the tip of your knife as this will end up removing the point on the knife tip in time.
Practice, practice practice and hold the knife at 90 degrees to the base.
The spyderco sharpmaker is fine for touch ups but not the best to reprofile the edge although it can be accomplished.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but I just ordered the diamond stones. How are they for reprofiling.

thanks
 
Well after much hard work and cleaning of the stones, I have sharpened all my utility knives to shaving sharp. My arm look so stupid, but it is addicting after you see hair popping off left right and center, had to switch to the dog...:D All edges I did to 40*. For some reason some won't slice computer paper tho?:(

I'm still working on the kitchen 8" it isn't no where as sharp as it want it...

Oh well on to my dad's old Buck folder:)
 
It will work fine, 99% of all knife steel can handle 15 and lower without issue.
 
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