I will be making a few knives this weekend that will have mammoth ivory as handles...I have never used mammoth ivory...any tips on how best to work mammoth ivory? All that $$$ spent on the scales...don't want to screw up a set if you know what I mean. The reason I am asking is I did a Bowie earlier that had Giraffe bone scales and I had a tough time with discoloration on them...I suppose I needed to use brand new belts so I would not burn them. I suspect the same lesson could be applied here as well. Any tips appreciated!
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First time working Mammoth...questions
- Thread starter godogs57
- Start date
I'll throw in my 2 cents. I'm sure some of the pro's will chime in...
Don't get it hot. Go slow and use new belts, don't be afraid to put it down to let it cool off. Don't get it wet. That will surely mess it up. When your done working it you need to seal it. I've liked putting a light coat of thin super glue.
I suggest trying alot of searches on Mammoth Ivory and you should get alot of help from what the other makers post good luck.
Don't get it hot. Go slow and use new belts, don't be afraid to put it down to let it cool off. Don't get it wet. That will surely mess it up. When your done working it you need to seal it. I've liked putting a light coat of thin super glue.
I suggest trying alot of searches on Mammoth Ivory and you should get alot of help from what the other makers post good luck.
Don't get it hotter than you can touch to your lips and 'stand it'.
Don't get it wet.
Use sharp belts and sharp bits.
It will chip out so when you are drilling, use a backing piece of wood to keep chipping down. It's almost impossible to not have it chip a little so plan for that.
Don't buff it with any color buff compound other than white.
Don't be afraid to sand it down a bit to expose some new color if the top color is ugly but keep in mind, the color layer is usually thin and you will end up with white.
You can use leather dye to give more color if you like.
hope that helps.
Don't get it wet.
Use sharp belts and sharp bits.
It will chip out so when you are drilling, use a backing piece of wood to keep chipping down. It's almost impossible to not have it chip a little so plan for that.
Don't buff it with any color buff compound other than white.
Don't be afraid to sand it down a bit to expose some new color if the top color is ugly but keep in mind, the color layer is usually thin and you will end up with white.
You can use leather dye to give more color if you like.
hope that helps.
Arthur Washburn
Knifemaker and AMC Freak
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If you are working with bark you need to work it slow. It takes me three weeks to fit up a set of ivory scales. I normally do not use ivory unless it has dried in my shop for at least a year.
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I have had better luck with stabilization. It is bad to warp !
Joe Sangster
Joe Sangster
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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I just sent Mike at WSSI 20 pounds to stabilize.
Go SLOW...repeat..SLOOWWW
Don' get it HOT,and let it COOL regularly.
HAND sand the final stages.(or all stages)
Don't get it WET
If unstabilized coat with the thinest cyanoacrilic you can get and resand by hand.
WEAR A RESPIRATOR
Buff and polish with white rouge,preferably by hand.If you use a buff or belt use a very slow speed or you will burn it quickly.
Go SLOW...repeat..SLOOWWW
Don' get it HOT,and let it COOL regularly.
HAND sand the final stages.(or all stages)
Don't get it WET
If unstabilized coat with the thinest cyanoacrilic you can get and resand by hand.
WEAR A RESPIRATOR
Buff and polish with white rouge,preferably by hand.If you use a buff or belt use a very slow speed or you will burn it quickly.
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2003
- Messages
- 2,767
I have a question while we are here on this. If you use a few small hidden pins and epoxy the slabs really well to the tang (using unstabilized ivory), are you inviting the ivory to crack because of stress? Or, do you think the ivory trying to move will be minimal enough to not present a problem with the ivory locked down solid?