First timer questions

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RH

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I would like to try my hand at handle-ing my CRKT Stiff Kiss, both for ergonomics and just because it looks like fun customozing a knife. I've looked at Koval, and I'm planning to order a pair of Dymondwood scales. For rivets, they have Loveless, Corby, Luke, or Brass Cutlers. I will be using only the most basic tools - hand files/rasps, drill, sandpaper (not because I'm a minimalist, because that's all I have).

Questions:
Is Dymondwood a workable material with my limited tools? Is there something easier to work (that won't require a respirator) ?

What rivets would you recommend, or should I just use epoxy?

Thanks in advance.
 
...also, is there a better place than Koval to order this basic stuff?
 
There are certainly "better" materials, and "better" places to order.

The only way you can tell is by trying it out.

Dymondwood is great for a first try at handle slabs. If you were making a hidden tang, I would have recommended a wood block. The fact that dymondwood is dimensionally stable and comes perfectly flat makes working it very easy and simple. It's also cheaper than most woods. You can learn a lot about shaping a handle by trying to "match the topography" of 2 pieces of dymondwood.

You will want a good epoxy - 2 ton Devcon, as well as some sort of vice or clamp to hold the pieces still while you work on them.

I would also recommend using pins instead of rivets. For the beginner, pins are very easy. Just drill the correct size hole and stick the pin through it when you glue up the handle slabs.

By "pin" I mean a solid cylinder of brass (easier to work with vs. steel) either 1/8" or 3/32" in diameter. Use the appropriate drill bit to make the holes.

Again, to reiterate - there are many "better" solutions to the problem. Just pic one and go with it a.s.a.p. If you end up liking or disliking the results, try another one. As with every skill acquired there is a "learning curve" and that counts for materials too.

Don't expect perfection and you'll always be pleased with your work. ;)

Personally, you couldn't pay me enough to work in micarta, carbon fiber, or other poly_____ materials. But I came to that knowledge on my own - not because of what somebody else told me.:footinmou

Hopefully you have already read the many tutorials on knifemaking...
 
RH,

What pendentive said, plus a few more points.

For a pin material try some brass welding rod. Reall cheap at the hardware store. Use a size that matches the holes in your KISS.

You can find Devcon 2 ton epoxy at Walmart.

Dymondwood is easy to work with files and sandpaper. However, the stuff reall shines (pun intended) when you buff it. A little buffing wheel attachment for your drill and white compound (avoid emery it can blacken up the handle) will make all the difference.

Stabilized Wood is really nice, but $$ and IMHO wouldn't look good on that knife. Micarta would look good, but you have the dust problem.

All in all I think you have a great idea for a fun first time project.


Steve
 
first off, as always, people in here have already given you outstanding advice.

Just a little bit towards my preference here, and something you might consider, depending on the colors of the diamond wood, is that at most hardware stores you can also get copper welding rod, which you may prefer the look of. Esp. if you burnish the pins afterewarads with a steel pin. Or even use both copper and brass welding rod, which is what will probably be next thing I try.
 
Are here any tutorials available online (aka, "free"), or just books?

Is Texas Knife supply a good place to deal with? Their website seems a little friendlier than Koval.
 
I'm sorry, but under no circumstances can I condone the use of diamond wood. Wear a mask and try some natural wood or Micarta and keep it wet, and avoid the fumes--a fan or well ventilated area). Here's a tutorial that's primarily for fixed blades, but it will help.

http://www.engnath.com/public/intable.htm
 
Thanks for the excellent reference!

Why such a strong opinion against Dymondwood?
 
I should have put a big grin there. It's an aesthetic thing with me, I like the natural materials, or some of the phenolics. I've never been a big fan of Diamondwood. One handle material we left out would be stag. The European Red isn't that hard to find, and always has a classic look. Another would be jigged bone, which you can buy all ready jigged and dyed.
Something else about some of the more exotic woods, is their chemical toxicity. Some sources estimate that about half the population is allergic to Cocobola, which is a sensitizer. That means you may not have any initial reaction to it, but over time you can develop rashes and other toxic symptoms to it. You need to keep it off your skin and out of your lungs.
 
Dymondwood has a love-it-hate-it factor to it, but more important, it comes pretty much only in 3/8inch thick slabs. The size of the CRKT knife means that unless you want your handle to look (and handle) like an egg on steroids, you'll end up cutting or filing almost down to 1/8inch thick slabs - thats 2/3 stock removal required. I think an equally tough handle material is linen or canvas Micarta. Black linen can be obtained anywhere - Texas Supply, Koval, K&G etc. in 1/8 or 3/16 thick slabs and can be left just a satin finish - anywhere between 240 and 600grit for a nice grippy tactical look, or it can be taken all the way to a full polish for a more showy look.

Loveless rivets and the other rivets you mentioned are too big. The handle is actually quite narrow. They are also for use on full tang knives that have pin holes designed specifically for that sized screw. Using pins is better, but remember that you cannot drill the handle for more pinholes as the steel is already hardened unless you want to shell out for a drill press and carbide drill bits.

The handle is also chamfered and smoothed at the edges to make for a comfy handle as a skeletonised knife. So when you attach the new handle slabs, there could be some gaps showing around the edges. Maybe its not a concern for you, but thought I should let you know first.

I've done exactly what you are trying to do as well, as couple of years ago. Good luck with your project. Its great fun as a starter. Jason.
 
stiffkiss_review_mdp.jpg


I would hope that it would be easy enough to find a place to stick the pin. In fact, what might be even more fun would be to get a 1/4" or 3/16" diameter brass hollow tube and put one in the front part of the large opening and one in the back hole. You'll have to measure the openings to make sure there is enough space. This way you could always put in a lanyard if you wanted to.

Re: chamfered tang

Just make the handle slabs slightly smaller than then tang. You've probably seen it done on other knives. Email me if you want more info.

I don't think you'd want to go all the way to 1/8" thick slab. Even on the dished parts of my small paring knives it's still at least 3/16" thick each side. 3/8" is a great thickness to start with because you won't have to remove much. The Dymondwood is very easy to work and it makes getting the slabs exactly alike very easy as well.

Oh, and you should plan on using a dust mask regardless of what material you are working with. Dust is dust and even the friendly stuff will clog your pipes.

You've got a lot of ideas to work with here.

I would give you this one last bit of advice.

Do as the knife says = Keep It Super Simple !
 
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