First traditional folder...which of these two?

Masteroffajitas

Masteroffajitas

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I've been looking at alot of these traditional folders, I got alot of help in my other thread. But now that I've narrowed it down a little, I have a few more questions. How's the lockup on the Fightn' Rooster knives? What about queen cutlery? I'm either getting a fightn' rooster or a queen canoe. Help me decide.

I'll be whittling, edc tasks, light batoning(like fat wood) and scraping.
 
What is batoning?
If U plan to take the blade of a production slipjoint & scrape a surface,with blade perpendicular to the surface,plan on making the blades loose.

All knives have thier limitations.
**Edited in...I went n looked (searched it) in the survival forum,kwik & I do not think a slipjoint is going to hold up,too good, for too much batoning,just MHO.** And now it makes sense,why alotta guys say,this slip,is a companion to this camp knife,or the like.

There is a pattern,called a whittler.Perhaps the name of the pattern speaks for itself.

Hope I helped,
-Vince
 
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Without even really knowing what "batoning" is,I bet a 4" Queen stockman would be a good knife for you.I have one,and the combo of blades & size,pretty much takes care of a lotta knife needs,in a pocket knife
-Vince
 
For whittling, get a good whittler, for EDC a Canoe is great, for batoning, get a nice fixed blade, (even a cheap Old Hickory cooking knife), for scraping get a SCRAPER.
 
If you hit any slip-joint with a stick, you are asking for it to break. They are made for cutting and are less suited to abuse than the tactical knives are (most people discourage batoning with tactical folders as well). Think about their construction, tactical/heavy duty knives have bolts for pivots and even they can be damaged from batoning, a traditional slippie will have a lil' old pin as the pivot. Imagine this, when the blade is open you will have a leverage advantage over the pin, add how small the surface area is and also how hard you will be smashing it with a stick = sheared pin or loose blade. Save the light batoning for a fixed blade, you could lose a finger and many knives trying it with a folder.

Scraping with a knife blade can be done, but could damage the edge and just doesn't sound like a task I would want to use any of my pocket knives for. A SAK (swiss army knife) sounds like it would be a good choice if you plan to do more than cut with it.

If you want to stay traditional, I would forget about anything abusive or damaging and recommend a GEC (they are very strongly built), Queen, tougher Case like a trapper, larger stockman, moose, or a sodbuster.

I like to whittle as well and I have a preference over smaller knives when I carve. I find jacks, pen knives, barlows, whittlers, congress, and stockman all easy to whittle with as long as they are about 3in. to 3 5/8in. closed, no bigger and no smaller save for a few special knives. Case and Boker make my favorite whittlers, they have the thinnest blade and good edges, Queen and GEC are a little over the top for me as I don't need knives like tanks, I would rather have one that cuts well.

These are some of my favorites for EDC and whittlin.
Case Small Texas Jack
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Boker Barlow
DSC00008.jpg

Case Pen
CASE%20109%20(Small).JPG

note: these were random images off google.
 
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VCM3 said:
What is batoning?
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batoning is a form of knife abuse that can, and in some cases does, break your knife. Breaks your knife if its a sheath knife. If it's a folding knife, you will destroy the knife in a short time.

Basicly it's a tactic for spliting damp firewood to get at the dry wood inside. You take a length of firewood, stand the wood upright, then kay your knife edge down on the top end of the firewood/log your going to split. Then you take another piece of firewood and start hammering on the back of the knife blade, driving it down into the wood, acting like a spliting wedge. There's been many posts on the survival forum about this tactic. There's also been posts with pictures of some pretty hearvy duty knives, like Cold Steel recon scouts, being snapped in two by doing this. To do this with a pocket knife is just plain stupid.

Batoning was created for stimulating a synthetic market drive toward knives that were the "survival" knives that you just can't do without. I first saw batoning at the Blade show in the mid 80's by a couple of the knife smiths to demonstrate how tough thier knives were. It had little to do with camping or outdoor skills. Madison Avenue marketing for a particular kind of knife, plain and simple. In fact it represents the lack of real woods knowledge of the younger generation who are toy orientated. None of the old guys I knew growing up ever batoned anything, even on a rainy day. If there was heavy duty cutting to be done, there was a hatchet in the kit bag.

Please, if you have a nice pocket knife, don't baton with it. Just send it to me, and I'll find a nice home for it where it will be appreatiated for what it is. A nice cutting tool.
 
Slip joints are put together with small pins, not 1/4 inch thick screws like some tactical knives, they will not hold up to the abuse of batoning nor were they meant to. Of course some slipjoints are tougher than other, a large Hunter pattern is much tougher than a peanut for example but the hunter still wasn't made to be beat on.

Knives are tools and as such should be used for the job they were made for. A large slipjoint can be use to split small pieces of fat wood off of a stick but if you have to use a second piece of wood to hammer it then you are trying to split too large a piece. Both of the brands you mentioned are great knives but remember they are not lock blades, misuse them and you are looking at cut fingers or worse.
 
Hey guys,

It's call good. Master of Fajitas said batoning fat wood. Fat wood from what I understand is a sap impregnanted pine that comes in eraser sized blocks. So I think it will be ok. Now, if you were to baton some oak, that would be a different story.

God Bless
 
kidwholaughs said:
Hey guys,

It's call good. Master of Fajitas said batoning fat wood. Fat wood from what I understand is a sap impregnanted pine that comes in eraser sized blocks. So I think it will be ok. Now, if you were to baton some oak, that would be a different story.

God Bless
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The one and only time I ever had a slipjoint close on a finger was trying to split a piece of soft pine. Folding knives, regardless of pivot size and lock mechanism, are slicing tools. Even the locks on "tactical" knives aren't usually meant to handle impact loads. If you're even thinking about striking a folding knife, you're using the wrong tool for the job.
 
jackknife said:
Batoning was created for stimulating a synthetic market drive toward knives that were the "survival" knives that you just can't do without. I first saw batoning at the Blade show in the mid 80's by a couple of the knife smiths to demonstrate how tough thier knives were. It had little to do with camping or outdoor skills. Madison Avenue marketing for a particular kind of knife, plain and simple. In fact it represents the lack of real woods knowledge of the younger generation who are toy orientated.
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Amen! Glad someone got that out. I think I'll bookmark jackknife's post so I can link back to it from time to time.
 
I have a very small Fiskars hatchet which comes in a highly useful carry sheath for belt or pack carry. You don't even notice you carry it, but it will do the job it's intended for when needed. This is what I split with (baton) I just feel it's inherently dangerous to baton with any knife let alone a folder! Fatwood is soft enough stuff but nice and sticky, just the thing to shut up a folder on you.....

To the OP, check the ENTIRE Queen Cutlery range,look at CASE,GEC,BÖKER and others and you will most certainly find an amiable woods walker EDC. Good luck!
 
As far as I know S&M are pretty good. Someone else might want to chime in on it. I heard that Cas SS are very close to SAK's SS. It would want something for bushcraft. I would go with a SAK Farmer, Sodbuster, Barlow or Stockman knife. All of those knives would be fine for fatwood. If you want something nice and useful for general purposes. I really like the Peanut and Small Texas Jack in Amber Bone. Those two are hard to beat.

God Bless
 
A friend of mine (who died a few years ago in his 80's) really liked the Hen and Rooster brand knives. I do not know if Fightin' Rooster is an offshoot of H&R, but he really liked the former.

Queen D2 is really good. Queen would come highly recommended from me. Case also makes a nice knife at a reasonable price.
 
Masteroffajitas said:
How is schatt and morgan's stainless steal? How does it hold an edge?
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I know several of the S&M's use 420HC steel, great to look at, good for corrosion resistance but more frequent sharpening for sure. I think all the File-N-Wire series uses ATS-34 (but better check to be sure if this is important to you).
 
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