First whittling knife?

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Mar 27, 2015
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8
Hi I finally decided to stop thinking about it and decided to ask for help to get started in Whittling. I'm looking to carve my own wood fishing lures and I'm not sure what to look for in a used inexpensive knife. I imagine if I enjoy it I will want a few expensive knives but for now I'm just looking for a basic used knife that will get me started on the right track. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Pete
 
Thank you! I forgot to mention I'm interested in a folding knife to start out with.

The Opinel looks perfect! Thank you.
 
Welcome.

I'd suggest a Case. They have knives in a pattern called a Whittler. Very good knives, reasonably priced even new. A Case Stockman would also be a good choice.
 
Case stockman or Whittler, look for a CV (most case blades are stainless)blade if you can find it. I also like the cold steel mini tuff lite
 
An Opinel would work. But I would choose a Case or Queen stockman pattern traditional slipjoint. The multiple blades would likely be very useful. Mora makes wood working knives, but I have no idea how expensive they are. Choose a steel that sharpens up real well and something very nimble in the hand for detail work.

I guess my question is "what is an inexpensive knife to you?"
 
Pete,

My recommendation would be to look for a used Schrade USA (not the current Schrade, but Schrades with USA on the tang stamp) Old Timer stockman. These are made with 1095. Look for the patina (discoloration) on the blades. Easy to find on the auction sites. More details...

First, I'm no expert. Just a hack. I think you'll get a ton more information posting this to the Traditional sub-forum.

Blade shapes - a short pen blade and short spey or Wharncliff style blade are needed for detail work. It's just not really feasible to choke up on a longer blade for controlled detail work and with a spey or Wharncliff, you can really control the point for detailed work. I love Opinels and carry one nearly every day. But I don't really whittle with mine. I do work wood - things life featherstick and cutting brush and the like. But the blade is too long for detailed work. Some folks modify Opinels for whittling by grining the blade to a short Wharncliff. Search in the Traditional forum to find examples. But before you do that, just grab a stockman to get started.

Grind - A flat grind is best, imo. Learn to sharpen by hand and you'll naturally convex the blade. Buck makes nice stockman knives but they're hollow ground.

Steel - I prefer a fine grained steel that is fairly hard. The harder steel can be taken to a fine edge without rolling. One reason I'm suggesting the old Schrade USA stockman is that they ran their 1095 up in the 59 Rc range. It's just great stuff. Fine grained stainless is excellent too: 420HC (Case, Leatherman) or 12C27 (Opinel) are great. One reason these steels are great is that they are super duper easy to touch up. Quick touch ups keep the blade sharp and a sharp blade makes the work fun.

Stone - Get a small sharpening stone. Learn to sharpen free hand by not worrying about burning up the blade. Cheap knives are just fine.

I actually use a Leatherman Micra. Sounds nuts but it works for me. They're dirt cheap (I buy them use in bulk on the auction sites) and I'm willing to regrind the blade to a Wharncliff and reprofile the edge. With the tool opened full length, it's actually pretty comfortable for whittling. I did finish a ball and cage, thought I restarted the project with some bass wood.
Micra whittling by Pinnah, on Flickr

One reason I do this is that I always have the super useful Micra in my LFP (and Opinel in RFP).
 
My first whittling knife was an Imperial BSA knife — far from the best choice, given its big spear blade and bluntish point. But that's what I had. A small, very sharp pen blade would have been much better.

At Scout camp, you could always tell when a new whittling merit badge class started: kids started sprouting white bandages on digits.
 
I just quit whittling for the evening, and I'll happily recommend my favorite folding knife to carve with, the same one I was just using, the Cold Steel Tuff Lite:

3tbo2Ds.jpg


It also comes in a smaller size, the Tuff Lite Mini. I find both are excellent knives to carve with, and they're cheap and easy to find. For bonus points, they're both Chicago-legal as well (the larger model squeaks in just under the 2.5" blade length limit for the city).
 
Thank you for the help! I guess since I'm new at this I'd like to get away with spending $20 to $30 on something used. I already see myself leaning towards knives over $100 but thinking it's best I wait till I know what suits me. Im a big fan of vintage knives and I'm thinking I need to stay under 2.5 inch being in Chicago. Thank you for pointing that law out. Any chance do you know if thats for all of Cook County or just inside city limits? I'm guessing I don't need too big of a knife since I'm planning on carving out 3 to 5 inch topwater lures to start with. I'm not even sure what woods to use or what type of steel I should get. I'm planning to get a book to help me out. I can see there is a lot more to learn than I thought which has me even more interested in getting started. Is there any good starter books you guys can recommend? Thanks again for all the good responses!
 
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All the brands mentioned from new to vintage look pretty good. I feel like a kid in a candy store, not sure which direction to go in!
 
I like the comfortable look of the handle on the Opinel No 5 and I like the blade of the Tuff Lite. I also like the 3 blades on the Schrade. The other ones look good too. I think I need to go pick them up and see how they feel in my hands. Is there a place in Chicago you guys could recommend? Thanks again, I appreciate the help.
 
...I'm guessing I don't need too big of a knife since I'm planning on carving out 3 to 5 inch topwater lures to start with....

Get something that affords a decent, comfortable grip for your size of hand. If a stockman pattern knife fits your hand — and they come in several sizes — it's a good generalized knife choice. Also, a stockman offers three blades, at least two of which will work for whittling.

However, if you're planning on whittling a significant number of fishing lures (say half a dozen or more), I'd recommend getting a set of wood-carving tools. Those will be better designed for the job, be easier to use, and far more comfortable in your hand.

Then your choice of knife for pocket carry can be freed from slaving away in a fishing-lure factory!
 
I find the Case Swayback Jack (in CV if can find) a great whittler. Feels good in the hand and cuts great.

bic.jpg
 
Pete,

My recommendation would be to look for a used Schrade USA (not the current Schrade, but Schrades with USA on the tang stamp) Old Timer stockman. These are made with 1095. Look for the patina (discoloration) on the blades. Easy to find on the auction sites. More details...

First, I'm no expert. Just a hack. I think you'll get a ton more information posting this to the Traditional sub-forum.

Blade shapes - a short pen blade and short spey or Wharncliff style blade are needed for detail work. It's just not really feasible to choke up on a longer blade for controlled detail work and with a spey or Wharncliff, you can really control the point for detailed work. I love Opinels and carry one nearly every day. But I don't really whittle with mine. I do work wood - things life featherstick and cutting brush and the like. But the blade is too long for detailed work. Some folks modify Opinels for whittling by grining the blade to a short Wharncliff. Search in the Traditional forum to find examples. But before you do that, just grab a stockman to get started.

Grind - A flat grind is best, imo. Learn to sharpen by hand and you'll naturally convex the blade. Buck makes nice stockman knives but they're hollow ground.

Steel - I prefer a fine grained steel that is fairly hard. The harder steel can be taken to a fine edge without rolling. One reason I'm suggesting the old Schrade USA stockman is that they ran their 1095 up in the 59 Rc range. It's just great stuff. Fine grained stainless is excellent too: 420HC (Case, Leatherman) or 12C27 (Opinel) are great. One reason these steels are great is that they are super duper easy to touch up. Quick touch ups keep the blade sharp and a sharp blade makes the work fun.

Stone - Get a small sharpening stone. Learn to sharpen free hand by not worrying about burning up the blade. Cheap knives are just fine.

I actually use a Leatherman Micra. Sounds nuts but it works for me. They're dirt cheap (I buy them use in bulk on the auction sites) and I'm willing to regrind the blade to a Wharncliff and reprofile the edge. With the tool opened full length, it's actually pretty comfortable for whittling. I did finish a ball and cage, thought I restarted the project with some bass wood.
Micra whittling by Pinnah, on Flickr

One reason I do this is that I always have the super useful Micra in my LFP (and Opinel in RFP).
Wow is there anything the micra can't do
 
Even "inexpensive" is a bit subjective. But theres alot out there: Mora, Opniel, Case, Bear& Sons etc
Mr Nessmuk loved moose pattern folders
Recently got a Ben Orford 2in Sloyd. Really nice but the shipping is killer.
 
I find the Case Swayback Jack (in CV if can find) a great whittler. Feels good in the hand and cuts great.

bic.jpg

That's really nice! 👍

Northwoods in bone - CPM 154 blade
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427572169.455525.jpg

And if you get as thirsty as I do while working, the Beerlow in 1095 and Rootbeer Rams Horn handle ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427572407.911228.jpg
 
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