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Fitting a handle

L

lwrhea

Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
1,482
I am making an axe from scratch including the handle. I thought you might want to get an idea of how I go about getting it fit. As strange as it sounds, I fit the head before carving the rest of the handle a lot of times. This allows for some correction in the straightness if I don't get things in line to start with.

First I cut out the profile allowing some room for material removal. This is 5/4 kiln dried hickory.


I use the band saw to remove a lot of the extra.. Again, I am working mainly on the part that goes into the head.


Then I start shaping the area carefully with a #50 Cabinet Maker's File. This eats wood fast.




I am removing material as I see it interfering with the fit and just keep tapping it on and off till I get things fit the way I want.
 
I had to go to another post.



If I take it slow and easy, it will settle right on down. On this one, I left a square shoulder for the flat bottom of the axe to rest on. It takes some serious tapping to get it on down. If I am afraid that it will break something or flake out, I have to remove it and rasp off a little more till it goes without extreme effort.



You'll notice that as I got close to the right fit, I went ahead and shaped and sanded the area close to the head. This is because I cant get to it after the head is mounted. I have about 6 inches of the handle finish sanded and will do the rest later and over lap the areas.
 
My apologies. This was supposed to be in the Axe sub forum.

Moderators please bail me out. Thanks
 
If I promise to feed this thread and take it for a walk, can we keep it.....pleeeeeeeease?
 
Thanks guys.

Karl you know who gave me the idea of the rasp. :) Thanks

Well if this is not going to be moved, I'll show the finished axe. The handle is 22 inches and the cutting edge is 3-5/8.


 
You are one of my all time favorite makers, sir. From little EDC's and hunters to your amazing bowies and axes, all with incredible craftsmanship. And on top of all of that, you're incredibly helpful and kind to anyone asking advice. Thanks for posting this up. Whoever ends up with this will be very happy, I'm sure.

Jeremy
 
Lin,
You put this up just in time. I'm fixin to make a handle for a tiny ax head that I bought from Eugene Shadley at last years Guild show.
 
Lin,
You put this up just in time. I'm fixin to make a handle for a tiny ax head that I bought from Eugene Shadley at last years Guild show.
 
Thanks Jeremy! I appreciate that.

Calvin, When it comes to handle designs, you are the boss. However I would look at a lot of pictures and settle on something that would fit the head as far as style or period of the style. Holler if I can help.
 
Stunning work Lin! Sexy lines and proportions, but still tough and timeless.

Simply hums with quality. Would almost consider trading my left one...

Thank you for sharing.
 
Thank you for posting this.
I had thought about re-handling some old axe and hammer heads I had collected.
This thread makes it look easy.
 
Very nice Lin. I always enjoy seeing what you forge and make. I have adapted your methods to fit with my equipment for the handles I make. Thanks for sharing this here and also for being generous enough to give help to guys like myself, Jeremy and many others.

Chris
 
Yes - I do. ;)
I've been using mine for 10 years straight and still use it to shape every single knife handle.
Even used it today. (Mine says "Made in USA")
I hope the Brazilian ones work 1/2 as well.

lwrhea said:
Karl you know who gave me the idea of the rasp. :) Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Nice Lin. I do this a lot myself. Sometimes I put black shoe polish inside the eye to find high spots that are causing issues. I have to do this more often on my axes that are asymmetrically welded and not drifted.. they can be a little more ornery.

But nice clean work...
 
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