Fitting a jersey axe - tips?

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Nov 14, 2011
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Looking for some tips or recommendations on hanging a jersey style axe specifically fitting the collar. Is there a type of handle or length recommended for this style of axe? Do you gauge out underneath the collar?

I've done one to mixed results. I hung it on a French favorite 28" handle but it has come loose. (pictured below)

 
When you refer to the collar, do you mean at the bottom, by the pointy lugs? Or back by the poll? It looks like you have some extra there. I like to take away a lot of wood. Most handles have a lot of meat you can get rid of near the head and essentially give yourself a little extra wood to put in the eye. Looks like you might want to move the head down the handle a quarter inch or so and go for a tighter fit there.... I hope that is what you're looking for.
 
I use a hand plane or a spokeshave to thin out the shoulder of the handle to fit the lugs. I agree with VintageAxe, most handles could use some thinning down anyway. I love jerseys and rockaways, but they sure can be a pain to hang with those lugs.
 
I recently sank a lugged Wetterlings head on an overbuilt shoulder, and hopefully I can explain this well enough in words to give you some idea, because I have to say on my first try it went rather smoothly.

First, I focused on shaping the haft with 100 grit sandpaper and a Mora so that it very securely fit into the eye of the head. I pounded it down about a quarter of an inch, popped the head back off, observed pressure points where paint from inside the eye had worn off on the handle, and proceeded to sand the handle down the kerf to size. Then, I put the head back on, pounded it down about an inch, removed, reshaped, repeat. When it came time to shape the area for the lugs, I drove the head on, backed it off about an inch, and began carving out pressure areas where the lugs were going to sit. This was actually really easy to do. I carved from the shoulder up towards the eye, so that I wouldn't split the haft farther than necessary, and once I had the necessary material removed for the lugs, sanded it all out really good so that I didn't give the shoulder any opportunity to split around the carved out area. With a sharp carving knife, you can make quick work of that material, but always err on the side of caution. If you feel like you're going a little fast, take a step back and slow down-you don't want to wreck a haft that you have an hour of time invested in.

If the shoulder area is overly bulky from the get go, I'd start with removing a good amount of material there-supposedly an overbuilt shoulder increases the chances of splits generating down the handle.
 
I like that axe.

I have become fond of settling the head all the way down on the shoulder so that there is almost no shoulder visible. I just think it looks good. Because I am putting the head so low, I have to lengthen the kerf significantly every time. Lengthening the kerf has been the most important thing for me in getting them to not budge. I have a 4.5lb jersey to hang if I can ever find a good handle that is big enough to fill the eye. The eye is VERY long. I plan to cut the kerf to 2/3 of the way through where the head will sit. I am going to cut my own very long, low angle wedge out of hardwood and drive it in as far and solidly as possible. So far I have had excellent success with hardwood wedges because I can pound the hell out of them and drive them more solidly than a poplar or whatever is common.

Have you tried swell-lock? I haven't, but I'm curious to know how well it would work to put swell lock all over the haft within the eye and in the kerf and on the wedge.
 
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