fitting handle to bolster

J

John S.

Joined
Mar 28, 1999
Messages
14
I get gaps between the bolster and the handle material on fied blade knives. after checking fit after drilling the pin holes i get a gap.
My procedure is to make and attach the bolster, then secure the handle w/double side tape & clamp and drill pin holes. I repeat for the 2nd side-drilling thru the 1st holes. after unclamping and removing the tape i have a slight gap.

what am I doing wrong and how can I correct my fit. also is there a way to save the handle material instead of starting over.

thanks in advance
john s.
 
The first key is to insure your bolsters are square and true before you pin them on. After my bolsters are relatively sized, I put them together and put drill bits (or pin material) though the hole to keep them aligned. I take them to the grinder, lay them on the platen, and get them flush, front and back. I then take them to the disk sander, lay them flat, and give them a few light pushes into the disk. This gives you perfectly square, matching ends. I then get my handle material relatively sized and flatten the bottoms so they will fit tight on the tang. I take the edge of the scale that will butt up against the bolster and give it a few light pushes against the disk sander. You should get a super tight fit after that.

I push the scale tight against the bolster and use a set of vise grips to clamp it tight. I use a little strip of leather between the grips and the handle material to protect the material. Drill your holes with it clamped.

A few misc. notes:

* Ensure your scales are the thickness you want them before fitting them to the handle.

* Get a finished block of granite or other stone from place that does countertops. It should have a great smooth, flat surface. Tape a sheet of sand paper to it and rub your scales on the paper to give them a flat bottom. This will give you a tight fit to your tang. Use pencil markings on the bottom of the scales while sanding to make sure you get complete coverage. It you sand and still see marks, you are not flat yet.

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"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
George Orwell
 
John,
I agree with dogman on the methods for getting the slabs flat. But, once you get them flat and fitted to the bolsters, DO NOT CLAMP AND DRILL!!! I've tried every other way imaginable and still have perfect fits the best by gluing on one side, drilling the holes on that side after the glue has cured, then glue the other side, let it cure, and finish drilling holes through the ones already drilled. It's a little slow and very elementary way of doing it, but it still works the best.

Hope this helps!

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Craig Blankenship
Blankenship Knives
http://www.blankenship-knives.com
 
Originally posted by GaKnife:
Knifemaker has the right idea. That's how I do it. Works great.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great ideas. I will try the glueing the slab on first method then drilling. maybe i can salvage my handles nowwith that method.
great ideas gentleman.
 
Wow, that's the first time I've been quoted on here that wasn't someone disagreeing with me.
smile.gif
Thanks John, but give Craig the credit.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
I had that problem too, no matter how careful I tried to drill. This may help with your problem. I got one of those new type bar clamps that you squeeze the handle to tighten up. Cut a slot in the center of the fixed end about 1/4 inch wide and 1.5 or 2 inches deep. After the blade is drilled, glued, pinned and clamped with a couple of C-clamps to hold the slabs to the tang, slide the blade into the slot in the bar clamp and pull the moveable jaw up snug with the butt end of the slabs to dry. Often just a little pressure in this direction will eliminate that annoying line of epoxy between bolster and slab.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=105085&a=767838&p=17948986

James

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Those who are willing to trade freedom for security deserve neither, and in the end, seldom retain them!

[This message has been edited by T. J. (edited 03-17-2000).]
 
James, I'm not sure that will work on tapered tang knives. As you tighten, the slabs tend to slide down the taper a little. It really doesn't get much easier and foolproof than what knifemaker described. I also use a variation on the same theme for my bolsters, without the epoxy of course.

(edit: Well now that I took the time to read what you said more carefully, I understand you are applying pressure towards the bolsters. Makes sense. I just have a basic distrust of clamps, since they seem to tighten things in one spot at the expense of the fit elsewhere.)

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com

[This message has been edited by GaKnife (edited 03-15-2000).]
 
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