Fix for Awl on SAK

Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
267
Hey guys,

I'm finding it nearly impossible to open the awl/reamer on my climber without either first lifting up the hook/screwdriver or tearing a piece of nail off of my thumb.

So I decided to thread a really thin piece of rope through the hole in it and tied it into a loop that I can pull on for easy opening. I ended up taking it off because it looked to kludgy, and kept the awl from being able to close fully which I am afraid was putting stress on the spring. Have any of you guys tried anything like this? If so what did you use to thread through the awl. Or should I just wait for the spring to loosen up / my fingersnails to get used to it?
 
I have a few Swiss army knives in front of me and the awl opens easily on each. What oil are you using? I typically use mineral oil since it's non toxic but you might try Hoppes or Militec-1 if the awl is really stubborn. I'd expect that the awl will loosen up with use.
 
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How old is the knife? There could be some unseen debris in the joint. I have to clean out that whole backspring area every once in a while. Other than that, mine works fine.

I'm pretty good at getting old SAKs "back in the race", so to speak. One way I clean old SAKs is to pop off the scales, and soak the whole 'nekkid' knife in a small jar of mineral oil for a day or two. Oftentimes, this will soften and/or loosen up any (invisible) crud buried in the springs & joints. As fantastic as SAKs are, they're the worst for all the little nooks & crannies for lint & other pocket boogers to get into. Sometimes, as a last resort, holding the knife with kitchen tongs (after the scales are removed) and pouring a teapot of boiling water over all the joints, several times, will loosen up stuff.

Hope this helps. If not, PM me and I'll give you some other info as well.

thx - cpr

ps - the only SAK I couldn't fix was one someone had epoxied open. Never did figure that one out. :confused:
 
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Have to say I have had davide's problem with brand new SAKS and I don't think it is just lubrication an cleanliness. For me it is to do with the depth and sharp edges of the thumb nick. The nick is too close to the scales in the closed position and I have to start levering with my nail. The other thing is that there seems to be less leverage than on, say, a blade. Tha is the distance from the nick to the fulcrum - so more force needed.
I played at slightly rounding the edge of the nick with a stone on my Dremel on one knife - helped reduce the nail damage but didn't make it much easier.
I play fingerstyle guitar and am quite protective of my nails which tend to be sift despite all the usual tricks.
 
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