Fix framelock lock-up issues?

Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
1,093
I've got a frame lock knife here that barely locks up. Maybe only 5% at best.

Any tips on how I can fix this? Don't want to cut off my digits.


-Freq
 
I think he means it only engages to 5% of the tang instead of 40-60% like most do. I'd like some pics as well.
 
Depends on the knife.
What is the knife model and are you the original owner.
Matt
 
Sorry for the delay gents!

No blade play in any direction whatsoever, very very tight.

Here's a pic. Thanks very much =)

IMG_0874.jpg



-Freq
 
Sorry for the delay gents!

Here's a pic. Thanks very much =)

IMG_0874.jpg



-Freq

That is a digitectomy waiting to happen, and it won't wait long. Send the knife to the manufacturer. In theory, you might be able to fix it yourself. In theory, you might not get it right, though. Why make your own fingers part of a learning process? :confused: :eek: :D
 
Looks like a SRM710. If thats the case it will wear in quickly. And I doubt you would do anything with something that small to make it collapse. You could slowly sand the face of the lockbar and test it. Though you could also ruin the lockup doing this.
 
Digitectomy indeed. That made me laugh. Here's a ZT that locks up almost a little too tight (but works):

justright.jpg


Sometimes the difference is measurable in microns. Still, I'd follow everyone else's advice and send it back.
 
Well. If it is a srm710 like it looks like.. It would cost more to send it back then it would to buy a brand new one.
 
If it's a SRM I'd go ahead and try and fix it with some sand paper and a lot of patience. If you can't fix it, then your only out a few bucks and you learned something.
On the other hand, if lock up is solid then you can just use it and see if the lock bar moves as it wears in.
Will the knife pass a gentle "spine whack" test?
I used to have a Kershaw leek that had 100% of the lock bar contacting the blade tang. But the smallest amount of of pressure on the spine would cause the blade to fold. A buddy of mine has a leek with the same lock up as mine had, but it will pass a pretty hard "spine whack" I'm not advocating spine whacking, just giving out information.
 
If it's a SRM I'd go ahead and try and fix it with some sand paper and a lot of patience. If you can't fix it, then your only out a few bucks and you learned something.
On the other hand, if lock up is solid then you can just use it and see if the lock bar moves as it wears in.
Will the knife pass a gentle "spine whack" test?
I used to have a Kershaw leek that had 100% of the lock bar contacting the blade tang. But the smallest amount of of pressure on the spine would cause the blade to fold. A buddy of mine has a leek with the same lock up as mine had, but it will pass a pretty hard "spine whack" I'm not advocating spine whacking, just giving out information.

Actually, I hate to admit it, because I'm not sold on the value of spinewhack testing, and I loathe all the "hard use" threads...

But I actually spinewhacked the crap out of this thing, and no issues. I did not however have the knife in a vice, just in my hand, but I abused the heck out of it.

Really too bad, I'll never get what it's worth on the exchange now... :)


:jerkit:


-Freq
 
I would remove the blade, wrap it well with masking tape and carefully sand it. I'd use a very flat surface and maybe 600 grit. Carefully sand just the applicable portion of the blade at the same angle you see on it now. Test often if you really care about it.

If indeed it's a Sanrenmu 710, and I'll bet it is, you don't have much to lose and SRM is not going to fix it for you.
 
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