FIX IT ceramic glaze

[NickWheeler]

Hi Guys-

A customer gave me a piece of wood he insists is Myrtle wood. I thought Myrtle was a shrub, but oh well.

This stuff isn't very dense, and I recommended to him that I get it stabalyzed but he said no (he's afraid it would damage the integrity of the wood).

So, I have a can of Fix It, that a maker told me a long time ago I could spray onto unstabalyzed wood and buff/spray/buff away until it gave it a good coating.

One is this true? And two, how the heck do I do it ???

Thanks a bunch
Nick

 

[Alan Folts]

I have used myrtle and it was nice stuff, the peice I used was stabilized and dyed but it worked very easily and finished up rather well, the stuff although dense is very easy to grind...

As far as the Fixit spray I havent used it on myrtle, I have used it on maple and I find that a few coats with some dry time and a light buff works real good...

Alan...



------------------
If a Man talks in the forest, and there is no Woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?

 

[C L Wilkins]

I have used Fix-it quite a bit in the past. I personally prefer stabilized wood but.....
since you want to use Fix-it, I have about the same recommendations that Mr. Folts has. A number of coats, especially on wood that has a very open grain or is not too dense such as maple burl. Allow quite a bit of dry time between coats. Now, here is the tricky part. When you start to buff, this stuff comes off in globs, don't be alarmed! It is supposed to do this. Just buff the globs off and once you do, don't over buff. I usually start with CR then go to a green compound then finish up with lightly buffing pink compound. Finish up with gun stock wax or Renaissance Wax.

After all that you can see why I prefer stabilized wood. At one time, Fix-it was my "force du jour" for finishing wood scales.
The stuff works.

C Wilkins

 

[NickWheeler]

Thanks for the replies. I didn't expect it to be too easy.

Perhaps I can get him to change his mind and get it stabilized. Thanks.

Nick