Fixed blade steel

[Ruger 44 Redhawk]

Just a question about steel on fixed blades. I love the offerings from Chris Reeve, Busse, Emerson, et. al. And I know the difference in knife steels, grain structures, wear resistance, rust resistance, etc., but what is the big advantages/disadvantages in having a powder steel in a 7"-9" fixed blade as opposed to good 'ole 1095, 5160 or 52100? Obviously, one advantage would be rust resistance (especially in a wet environment), but isn't 1095, 5160 or 52100 a lot tougher? Most of my fixed blades are 1095 and 1/4" 5160 and I love the idea of a leaf spring steel like 5160 in a fixed blade where I have seen blades bend back to straight after some abuse. Just not sure if 154CM, CPM S35VN, CPM S30V, INFI (what is that?) and other Crucible steels would have big advantages. They would hold an edge longer, but aren't they more susceptible to chipping? By the way, I never "baton" my fixed blades. You all are the experts, just curious what your thoughts are?

 

[Backyard]

For a given steel, CPM or any other powdered version should be tougher, all else being equal. Some steels come in non CPM versions while others are only CPM. Once you start getting into larger blades the advantages become less pronounced. But you could always thin the blade a little more improving cutting performance without loosing as much durability as a non CPM steel

 

[Currawong]

"Powder metallurgy is a technology that was invented to allow the production of very high alloy tool steels. The issue with high alloy tool steels is that they form very large carbides that leads to poor toughness" https://knifesteelnerds.com/2018/08/20/what-is-powder-metallurgy/

A few things to consider: 52100 is not tougher than 3V. Having increased stain resistance and edge holding is nothing to sneeze at as a tradeoff against toughness. Also, toughness is not the same thing as edge stability, particularly on very thin edges; this is one area where very fine-grained steels like PM can shine.

 

[Sonnydaze]

3v is one favorite for a fixed blade...but Busse INFI is pretty well noted to be an outstanding steel...
Busse will not chip like many other steels. I own both 3V and Busse knives, and both are excellent.
I do NOT get into the woods enough to do any kind of in-depth discussion, but if pushed for an opinion,
I would say that INFI gets the nod...
As per OP's question, INFI is a steel, unique to BUSSE knives. The steel formula is a secretly processed steel with unique heat-treating and/or cryogenic treatment cycles...which gives the finished steel its outstanding qualities...
INFI knives are also in a price category much higher than "normally-experienced" fixed blade knives... For the OP to learn more, visit the BUSSE forum in Bladeforums...

 

[justjed]

For larger fixed blades, I prefer traditional non-stainless alloys, particularly L6 and 5160. 52100 is also a good one. Most of my big production knives are some flavor of 1095, with a bias towards 0170-6C. Easy to sharpen, takes a good edge easily enough. One specific advantage of carbon steels, in my opinion, is the capacity for a differential heat treatment. I'm not dismissing through-hardening, it works well enough, or stainless steels.

For smaller fixed blades, I do like stainless, for all of the usual reasons. Lately, I'm becoming a fan of 14C28N, and my EDC fixed blade is S35VN.

And none of this matters. Pick a decent blade steel. It will do the job, if the knife maker, or manufacturer, does THEIR job. That would be geometry, and heat treatment.

There's no such thing as a bad knife steel. There are, however, MANY steels that do not make good knives. These two things are not the same...

 

[dirc]

Read @Larrin 's articles about pm steels... but the short version is you'll get a finer grain structure with a pm vs an ingot - which gives better overall properties, particularly toughness

Having said that, there are many non-pm stainless steels with high toughness, look at aeb-l & 12c27 & 14c28n, even bucks 420hc

They give up some edge retention, but overall are great performers when dialed in with good heat treat protocols

 

[SALTY]

Disclosure: I'm not a metallurgist or any type of rocket surgeon, just a guy that likes and uses knives - generally (but not always) with a performance value per dollar spent mindset. Ease of sharpening and return to serviceability is part of that analysis matrix.

I like stainless steel folding knives that sit in my sweaty pocket and get used for things throughout the day without a decent cleaning sometimes.

Now to your point. I like 10XX steels for toughness, forgiveness, ease of sharpening and just good old fashioned utility based value. I am especially enamored with Becker's 1095 CroVan and, one of my favorites, 52100. These steels are not high maintenance and are forgiving of dings from abuse. The serve well, fix easily when needed and don't require diamonds and patience to sharpen back to serviceable. Corrosion, schmarosion, Navy SEALs used carbon steel MK1s in salt water for years; if it's good enough for them I think it'll be OK for us mere mortals; a little patina displays character.

As for 10XX steels - think about it, millions of truck springs and lawn mower blades can't be wrong; they live a tough life, get abused and not maintained ... yet they serve well. Just sayin'.