Fixed the wobble, but what have you done to me?!?

M

Maikutis

Joined
Jan 2, 2007
Messages
193
I posted earlier about the wobble with the scales, and you guys fixed me right up. In the process of fixing me up, I now plan on buying another G10 Leek to take apart for a scale on my 1660TSW. I also know from the forum I'm going to need Shallot screws to do this.

Now, the new question: I'm not a fan of the black plastic spacer for the scales. Where can I get some nice barrels (don't know the real name for these, but that makes since, right?) to open up the back of the knife? Anyone know the exact width?

Also, on the frame lock itself, there is no gripping. It does a fine job, but I know I can make it better. Has anyone dremeled a bit of a grip on the frame lock bar to ease sliding? (that's what she said)

Thanks.

(My wife hates all of you)

mike

edit:
Found this:

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/product_info.php?cPath=60_91_243&products_id=489

I measured the space (poorly, with a tape measure, so not sure if its exact and don't want to pull the trigger on it) at 1/8" or .125. These are the smallest I could find, and I know if its too big, it won't work. If anyone has measurements or an idea of where to get them, I'd love to hear it.
 
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Not sure about the Shallot screws, I'd think the G-10 Leek screws would be what you would need. Seems like they would come with the G-10 Leek you buy. :cool:

If you have a CNC machine shop or metal fabrication shop around close you might be able to get them to cut and drill one for you out of a small piece of billet aluminum or your choice of metal.

I've never tinkered with the lock jimping...never found it necessary.

As for your wife, after the first 100 or so knives, she'll get used to it. If not, gather up all her shoes and dump them in a pile in the middle of the kitchen floor, and ask why she needs all those shoes! :eek:

Make sure you post some pics of your FrankenLeek, or your pile of stuff in the driveway after your wife has thrown you out for messing with her shoes! :D
 
SPXTrader said:
Not sure about the Shallot screws, I'd think the G-10 Leek screws would be what you would need. Seems like they would come with the G-10 Leek you buy. :cool:

If you have a CNC machine shop or metal fabrication shop around close you might be able to get them to cut and drill one for you out of a small piece of billet aluminum or your choice of metal.

I've never tinkered with the lock jimping...never found it necessary.

As for your wife, after the first 100 or so knives, she'll get used to it. If not, gather up all her shoes and dump them in a pile in the middle of the kitchen floor, and ask why she needs all those shoes! :eek:

Make sure you post some pics of your FrankenLeek, or your pile of stuff in the driveway after your wife has thrown you out for messing with her shoes! :D
Click to expand...

DV, the G10 Leek screws are way too long when you use the framelock........... been there done that carry it daily. :D

You can't change the back spacer to barrels. The handle end of the torsion bar attaches to the back spacer. :thumbup:

If you need an exploded view of what you have going on just let me know.
 
spiralarchitect said:
DV, the G10 Leek screws are way too long when you use the framelock........... been there done that carry it daily. :D

You can't change the back spacer to barrels. The handle end of the torsion bar attaches to the back spacer. :thumbup:

If you need an exploded view of what you have going on just let me know.
Click to expand...

Understood on the screw length. :thumbup:

As for the CNC/fab shop recommendation, I think a good shop could scan his current back spacer and then cut another out of a billet...the material of the back spacer can be changed. I think that's what he was asking because he didn't like the black color? I didn't realize he wanted to change to barrels...that won't work because of the SpeedSafe reason you mentioned.
 
spiralarchitect said:
You can't change the back spacer to barrels. The handle end of the torsion bar attaches to the back spacer. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

You wouldn't be able to change it to barrels, but you could change the back spacer materials. I've been considering harvesting (or buying) the threaded brass inserts from my Bump's back spacer and making a new spacer out of wood. The plastic spacer just doesn't do it for me.

Phillip
 
Just took it apart, I see what you mean. Think I'll have a shop remake it to match the knife at least. Maybe even have the the rear-most a barrel and then the other two work for the torsion attachment. If a shop could make the barrel match the "bar" of the other two, it may look nice. Don't know, I'll have to mess around with it. Providing I do, I'll post pics.

Oh, yeah, one more thing: Does anyone make a pocket clip replacement that will allow it to ride deeper in the pocket? Maybe also that favors the back of the knife rather than directly over the frame lock? (the way I hold the knife, I tend to put pressure on the clip, which in turn puts pressure on the frame lock and squeezes the blade when I flip it open)

Sorry about all the questions. I really like the knife, I just feel like a bit of tweaking can make it the perfect knife.
 
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You might ask Steve here. He does a very nice low rider clip.

Come to think of it, he most likely would be able to do all of the mods you want.
 
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