Fixing a blade with no kick?

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Oct 17, 2009
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I know its a long shot, but have any of you guys had a knife where the blade edge rested on the back spring?

I bought this Queen made Moore Maker stockman that's got some issues, the main being that the clip blade has no kick, in fact this area is actually less wide than the blade itself.
I'd really like to make this knife usable, since I've wanted one for so long for sentimental reasons. I've thought of taking the thing apart and installing a pin that would allow the would-be kick to rest assured on, has anyone tried this?

Of course I could try this without dismantling, but there are other issues I'd like to fix that would require disassembly.

IMG_20190817_120304.jpg
 
Lay a piece of a wooden match in the well where the kick rests on the spring when closed.

Failing that, peen the kick. Lay the blade flat on a steel surface (vice face, etc.), take a flat faced punch, put it on the kick, and strike the punch with a hammer. This will elongate the kick and lift the edge of the blade off the spring when closed.

I'd use the wooden match stick my self. Over the years, I've come across many an old knife that had a wooden match stick or something else nesting in the well where the kick contacted it.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I hadn't thought of peening kick :thumbsup:

However, I just discovered another issue. Even though the edge is resting at the bottom of the blade well the tip is sitting just proud of the liners, so any lifting I do is going raise the tip significantly. I suppose I could always grind the tip down enough to sit properly.
 
I bought an old original Remington moose that someone ground the kicks off( :mad:evil thoughts:thumbsdown:) I cut shims from a plastic drink bottle. Tough enough plastic to resist being cut through, but also thin so not to raise the blades much
 
That's probably why the kick was filed - to lower the proud tip. If you grind on that blade, make sure you don't over heat the blade thereby losing the temper.
I think your right, it was probably done during production just to pass final inspection, if there was any. I believe Moore Maker sold some of their knives as factory seconds and I purchased from an unscrupulous seller that failed to make note of that.

Leather works as a spacer too, May have enough “give” to solve both problems, maybe not.
Thanks, Neal
thanks for the tip, I have plenty tooling leather laying around and it can't hurt to try. This blade has a gator snap, a 9.5 on a scale of 1-10, so something with a little give may be beneficial.

I bought an old original Remington moose that someone ground the kicks off( :mad:evil thoughts:thumbsdown:) I cut shims from a plastic drink bottle. Tough enough plastic to resist being cut through, but also thin so not to raise the blades much
good idea, won't hold onto moisture either :thumbsup:
 
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