Fixing a burr with Sharpmaker?

S

Swedge

Joined
Dec 23, 2008
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I have a blade with VG-10 steel that has a burr on one side. It still cuts fine, but using my fingernail to slide down the blade toward the edge, I note that it catches on one side, which I believe is the sign of a burr.

What should I do to fix the burr with the Sharpmaker? I don't have any freehand skill or stones.

Just keeping stroking on one side until the burr is gone?

Diamonds, coarse or fine?
 
are you sharpening to the edge on the side with the burr? if the bevel is steeper than the setting you are using on the SM (15 or 20 degrees) then you won't sharpen at the very edge where the burr is, and that could be why its there.
 
I am using the 40 degree angles with the Sharpmaker.

I don't know if I am sharpening to the edge. Should I be marking the edge with a Sharpie? If so, how much do I blacken? The entire bevel?
 
yeah, color the edge bevel and then sharpen a few strokes to see where the ink is removed. if the edge is very lopsided, yo can see that the bevels on both sides are not the same width
 
The burr on VG-10 can be a pain, once you know you are hitting the bevel and are almost complete with your sharpening do about 20 very light strokes. This will help to lessen the burr but you might want to try a strop to complete remove it.

P.S. The UF stones would be a big help too.
 
OK, so I blackened the edge of the knife with a Sharpie, and I could see that after a few strokes that the top of the bevel, not the edge, was being removed. So I decided that I should rebevel knife at 30 degrees, thinking that would remove the burr. I used the diamond rods for probably 60 strokes each side, then the coarse, then the fine. No joy to be found. I still have a burr!

I also tried stropping on plain cardboard, but that didn't resolve the problem either.

Any idea of what I should do next?
 
Swedge said:
Thanks, but paper wheels are not an option for me right now.
Click to expand...

You were grinding at a thinner angle, so you were hitting higher up on the bevel instead of closer to the edge. Keep grinding on the diamond rods (it may take a few hundred strokes) until you completely remove the sharpie marks all the way to the edge at 15 degrees. The diamond rods aren't that coarse, and on hard to grind steel they take a while. Just stick with it until you complete your backbevel at 15 degrees including sharpening with the ceramic rods, then keep going and finish with your final grit (fine or ultra fine stone) at the 20 degree setting to remove any burr and refine the edge more. You should be using moderate pressure with the diamonds, and lighter pressure on the ceramics. The final strokes should be with a very light touch. After rebeveling to a 15 degree backbevel it will be really easy to sharpen at the 20 degree setting.

Mike
 
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