Fixing a rounded point.

T

Tjstampa

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Mar 25, 2019
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I have been sharpening knives for the better part of 40 years. Lately I have started rounding the points. I know it is because I am allowing the point to fall off the stone. What is the best way to fix a rounded point. I have mainly been using bench stones, I also have an edge pro knock off (will be getting the edge pro apex for Christmas to support the actual patent holder) which was purchased prior to my joining Blade Forums. So please don’t bash me too much for that.
 
Are you sticking your finger under the point. Feeling how the stone glides over the tip?

Are you changing the direction you're scrubbing with the stone? Right to left, left to right. Flip the knife and repeat.

Working both sides until you get what you want.
 
IMO, the easiest way to get the blade profile you want is to profile the shape 1st, then sharpen. If it's not too rounded, usually you can just do that on an aggressive bench stone. I've done this a few times with broken tips or when reshaping a machete (because they're cheap and easy fodder for modding). A marker helps visualize the end shape you want.
 
bikerector said:
IMO, the easiest way to get the blade profile you want is to profile the shape 1st, then sharpen. If it's not too rounded, usually you can just do that on an aggressive bench stone. I've done this a few times with broken tips or when reshaping a machete (because they're cheap and easy fodder for modding). A marker helps visualize the end shape you want.
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This, exactly. Shape the tip first, then sharpen.
 
Thank you all for the quick replies. I worked on my slicing knife for about 90 minutes tonight. Read your replies and started to just sharpen the knife making sure I did not let the stone fall off the tip. I also spent extra time on the tip. I just used the junk stones that came with my knock off sharpener. I have new Venvee diamond plates coming in tomorrow. The tip is about 90% restored. The knife is back to being usable again. Unfortunately they are inexpensive Faber-ware knives of unknown steal. Really gummy and the burr likes to flip around when you try to remove it. I am sure I will be working on it again soon since my kids keep cutting on plates and putting the knives in the dishwasher :rolleyes:.
 
I had a Farberware serrated slicer that was a real dog, and before I threw it in the scrap bin I thought, “I wonder how this would cut as a plain edge?”

So I ground the serrations off and thinned the edge to about 25 degrees, and it sliced real well. Good for tomatoes.

Unknown steel, as you say. Burnishes well.

Parker
 
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To paraphrase what Murray Carter says: Sharpen right up to the tip, but not past it. Jason B says something similar about "sneaking up on the edge" so you don't form a large burr. Both are good advice about getting *right* to the point you want and not going past at all.

Two more points:

* If you are hand sharpening, put your off hand fingers *right* on the tip and edge as you sharpen. This will help you feel the contact and direct the pressure of the grinding to the proper places. Examine your edge and tip often.
* With just slight rounding, it's helpful to use magnification to see the roundness. This can help you form a plan of what part to remove. You might find that you need to grind *back* from the tip a good bit in order to make a straight shot to the actual tip of the blade. Magnification will give you a clear picture of how to proceed and will help you track your progress.

After I learned this I started making needle sharp tips on most blades that I worked on. It was very satisfying.

Best of luck,
Brian.
 
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