Fixing the centering on the Spydiechef

MyLegsAreOk

MyLegsAreOk

Joined
Aug 31, 2017
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So I'm getting ready to sell my Spydeichef because it annoys me how often the blade slips from lock and how the blade is slammed against the liner. I don't know how I would fix either but here are some images. I don't even know how it got like this but it has for at least two months.
x7MFjB1.jpg


hfWiMwa.jpg


All the marks are just gunk from work. I mean if I fix it I might not sell it, but I do want to sell it because it just is too janky. I can buy much cheaper knives that didn't do this.
 
I would use a torx t8 and slowly turn the pivot screws in equally. Just little by little each side till you get the blade centered. Not too much, otherwise the blade becomes stiff.
 
Loosen all screws. While the blade is closed, push it to the opposite (lockside) scale. Keep holding the blade there and tighten the screws.

This usually helps with centering issues.

Another trick would be to loosen all screws and tweak the handles. The blade favors the show side so pull that scale towards you while pushing the lockside scale away. Tighten screws when the blade appears centered. You could do this step while trying the previous method.

Best of luck. Keep us updated.
 
AKnife said:
Loosen all screws. While the blade is closed, push it to the opposite (lockside) scale. Keep holding the blade there and tighten the screws.

This usually helps with centering issues.

Another trick would be to loosen all screws and tweak the handles. The blade favors the show side so pull that scale towards you while pushing the lockside scale away. Tighten screws when the blade appears centered. You could do this step while trying the previous method.

Best of luck. Keep us updated.
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I tried this because it worked on a Manix 2. First thing I thought about, and it didn't work because of two reasons. One these aren't scales per se, and two the studs are D'd on one side and open on the other so there's no way either "scale" can flex. That being said the whole thing has to be bent somewhere. So right now it's about 1mm back in the correct way :/

However I got the lock to work better at wehre it is. I found that the lockbar and tang were both fairly smooth, in fact the tang was MIRROR SMOOTH. So what I did was just coarse it but rubbing the diamond stone across both sides about 20 times. It sticks where it is but it's still only 40% lock unless I put it over, then it's 90% but it's solid.
 
Glad you got some results.

Sounds like maybe the lock bar tension is a little light. If you trust yourself you could always bend the lock over more. Sometimes when the lock bar loses tension it can cause the blade to move to the show side.

I doubt you'll be able to send off for warranty or sell after taking a stone to the tang and lock face. Stuck with it now.
 
That pivot looks out of wack to me. I'd disassemble it, clean it, and make sure to put it back together correctly.
 
Officer's Match said:
That pivot looks out of wack to me. I'd disassemble it, clean it, and make sure to put it back together correctly.
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Are you saying that because there is more gap between the blade and scale? This is an optical illusion due to my camera work.

AKnife said:
Glad you got some results.

Sounds like maybe the lock bar tension is a little light. If you trust yourself you could always bend the lock over more. Sometimes when the lock bar loses tension it can cause the blade to move to the show side.

I doubt you'll be able to send off for warranty or sell after taking a stone to the tang and lock face. Stuck with it now.
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You'd be surprised what Spyderco will take for warranty now. They did some work on my blade swapped millie Ti I threw the s110v in there. The thing is I don't think they'll do foreign knives, because they wouldn't put screws in back on my Karahawk when I couldn't find the screws online.

BACK TO THE KNIFE: I also think it to be the lockbar, but you see the lockbar doesn't go over far enough. So do you believe maybe it's too strong but the bar is bent incorrectly so at the top the lock doesn't look far in enough but in the middle it's pushing the blade too far? I can't explain it well enough, but I've bent plenty of stainless and Ti scales I just need to get a good idea what to do because I do guesswork on something this janked.
 
Lock bar would need more tension. So slightly bend it in more towards the blade. It would explain why the blade is the way it is when it's closed and why you can push it over from 40% to 90% when it's open.

If you've tried everything else that's the only other fix I can think of.
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Of course, how else would I have said what I did.
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I'll go back and re-read what you have posted, as I must have overlooked it if you said you did take it apart. Looks to me like you didn't put it back together correctly, at least from your pictures. I haven't had my Chef apart yet, but I'm wondering if a washer is pinched or misaligned. Not trying to criticize, just trying to help.
 
Looking at the pictures you've posted I'd bet the pivot pin is not fully seated. Make sure the lock side of the pivot is fully seated, it has a flat which matches the flat cut into the pivot pin hole. If not fully seated it will create a small amount of space and allow the blade to slap against the scales, typically it would look exactly as your off center photo does, the lock bar is pushing the blade into it. Maybe your completely aware of it? If so still make sure the pivot pin is free to float slightly back and fourth in the pivot hole, maybe you've got a small burr keeping it from seating.

IMGP0529 (Large).JPG Your lock side pivot should look pretty like this.

IMGP0531 (Large).JPG in this picture I have both pivot screws removed and only slight pressure applied to hold it together the lockbar is pushing the blade over.


IMGP0533 (Large).JPG in this picture I've put moderate pressure on both sides at the pivot with my thumb and index finger. If your pivot pin is moving/floating correctly and not binding in the scales you should be able to do the same/similar. possibly not exactly the same, but you should be able to effect centering to some degree. I'm assuming your washers are flat and smooth.

If you have access to a digital caliper or some other method of precision measuring you can also check the inside of the scale flats on both ends mine measures right at 4mm on both ends, yours should be close to that, or at least pretty equal on both ends.

There are obviously other possibilities for the issues but this is a good place to start.
 
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