Fixing the villager handle (Thanks Yvsa!)

O

Outdoors

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May 24, 2001
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I finally got around to fixing the handle on my villager, it's one of the ones from 2 batches back. I found some brass rod stock at the locak general store (Fred Meyer, actually:D). The stock 1/8" and about 3' long for $3US, enough for, maybe 20 villager handles!

Fixing the handle to the tang is as easy as Yvsa made it sound. I drilled a 1/8" hole through the middle of handle (perpendicular to the blade) and about 1/4" back from the bolster. I wish I'd had a drill press, since my hole went through at a slight angle. Anyway, I fit the brass rodstock into the hole, marked it, and cut it to length. I sanded the entire outside with 400 grit paper and sanded the ends smooth. Then I coated the first half of the pin with crazy glue (I didn't have any clear epoxy) and inserted it into the hole. Next I glued up the last half and hammered the pin home. I left about 1/32" extra pin on each end, so I put the handle on the vice and peened down both sides, dressed it with a file, and touched it up with steel wool. Total time was about 10 minutes. Handle should be good to go now (assuming I didn't cut the tang in half!). These villagers have just enough work to do to make a great craft project. Thanks again Yvsa!

Patrick
 
Congrats on a job well done. I didn't drill mine straight either, don't hurt the knife any, works just as well as straight.:)
And you went a step further in glueing too. I just peened mine over.;)

A small piece of advice Patrick. Try to find a flat place such as a drawer to lay the remaining brass in.
I have some I've literally had for years in my machinist box drawer, but if not kept flat the brass can get messed up enough to be difficult to use.
And if you're ever fortunate enough to find some solid copper wire the same diameter or larger be sure to hang onto it for pins. I actually like copper better than the brass. Just think it's prettier.:)
 
Outdoors,

I missed the original thread. What was wrong with the Villager handle?

n2s
 
nts:
The tang on some of the villagers doesn't go all the way thru and get peened over like an HI khukuri. As a result the handle may loosen after a few years of work. According to Bill, this isn't considered a problem in Nepal, they just take the khukuri to a kami and get a new handle put on. I suspect they think of it the same way we think of rehandling a hammer or hatchet.

Anyway, putting a pin thru the handle near the bolster fixes the problem permanently.

Yvsa,
It was a piece of cake! I did it in the few minute break between dinner and bedtime for my son, Brendan. I'll have to look for a good place to store the extra brass, maybe I'll cut it in half to get it into a drawer. I think I hace some large diameter copper as well, the single strand electrical stuff. It looks to be about 10-12 guage, though I haven't measures it. Hadn't thought of using it for pins.... Hmmm. Thanks again!

Patrick
 
Outdoors,

Thanks for the tip. I have a handle working loose on one of mine and I trying to figure out the best way to thighten it up. The tang on this one does run through to the pomel and the bolster seems to be holding fine, but the blade does have some play.

My first though was to boil the handle for a few minutes to see if the lata settles and tightens the piece up. But, since the handle worked itself loose once I suspect it will simply do so again. Perhaps epoxy is the way to go. But, I am not sure how to apply the while the handle is still attached.

Suggestions anyone.

n2s
 
Experts,
Please correct me if I am wrong.

N2S,
If you cant squirt epoxy down in there you need to do is boil the handle off and epoxy the sucker back on. Try to save the butt cap, I destroyed the one that came on my Dasin Durba BAS that I am rebuilding, and it will double the time of the project.

(BTW I am really busy with finals till tues, so I will be unable to go look for a machine shop till then to weld the tang, but I will keep yall informed.)

How you get the handle off is you file off the peened over edge on the tang, then take off the butt cap(gently). The laha should turn to a sticky goo when boiled.

BOIL THE HANDLE OUTSIDE
IT REALLY REALLY STINKS :barf: :barf: :barf:
I used my grill and an old pan and was thankful that I did...Laha stinks like nobody's businenss. :barf:

Dont do this immediately, lets wait and see what the experts have to say.
 
Originally posted by not2sharp
Outdoors,


My first though was to boil the handle for a few minutes to see if the lata settles and tightens the piece
up.
But, since the handle worked itself loose once I suspect it will simply do so again.
Perhaps epoxy is the way to go. But, I am not sure how to apply the while the handle is still attached.

Suggestions anyone.

n2s
Click to expand...

N2S Dave has the right idea. I think if it was me I would try to get the keeper and butt cap off without any damage and then see how much of the laha I could get out from around the tang without boiling
it.
Since it's came loose it may be powdering or breaking up some so otherwise easier to get out.
If I could get it out half way or a bit more I would probably leave it at that and just fill in with epoxy from there up. Better yet heat it up and see if the laha would run out from there.
Then by putting a pin through the handle and tang it should last forever.
The problem with heating the laha first is that you will have to continue in order to get the whole thing apart.

I use a trick when taking the handles all the way off and then epoxying them back on.
I clean all the laha off I can get off and out of the handle.
Then I carefully slide the handle and bolster down the tang placing it carefully where I want it.
Then I take masking tape and carefully wrap the bottom of the bolster in place being extra careful to get it sealed around the bottom.
The masking tape properly applied will hold the bolster very
steady.
Then mix the epoxy and pour just a little bit into the well cleaned bolster.
Then slide the handle down the tang and center it in the bolster.
If you put too much epoxy in the bolster you're gonna have a mess because it will run out around the handle.
Usually the handles are quite a bit shorter than the lip on the bolster, but it pays to be careful here.
If you done it right then tape the handle in place, sealing the seam between handle and bolster.
Then of course fill the handle, smear a little across the top and then put on the butt cap and keeper. Usually enough runs out between the butt cap and tang to seal the keeper. Let dry well and then peen over.
I remove the masking tape soon after getting the handle all together and just before the epoxy sets up hard.
Makes it easier to clean up.

If the handle has plenty of room between it and the tang, some do, then you can tape the bolster in place getting it solid first and then taping the handle and the seam in place.
Then you can pour the handle full letting it run down into the bolster.

The other way is more work and apt to be more messy, but insures that everything is gonna have a nice tight seal.

But in reality if you heated the laha and then put a pin through the handle and tang it would probably never come loose again.
The pin would keep the handle from vibrating the laha loose again.
I hope all that makes sense, don't wanna have to redo it all.:)
 
How far do the tangs on villagers go into the handle? If one pin is good, would two be better? Maybe a half inch behind the first pin depending on how far back the tang goes? Maybe I could talk my dentist into using his x-ray machine for such purposes :)
 
Bruise one pin is enough.
The object is to keep the vibrations to the laha to a minimum and the pin helps to stabilize the handle.
What most of us forget is that the Nepali's use their khukuris hard every day or almost every day and they are rusty and the handles never or seldom given any care and the handles usually last them about 5 years.
We wouldn't work one that much probably in our lifetime.
Uncle Bill has a customer in the woods back east that has used a Hanuman for years with no problems at all and he has never pinned the handle.
 
The pin gives you a lot of confidence whether you really need it or not. Sort of preventive maintenance.
 
I had a handle come loose on a reject Ang Khola that Uncle Bill sent sent me. The handle was also cracked. I was curious if could get the handle to separate with heavy chopping. I could not, the peen and residual lata most have held it in place.

To fix the handle and blade attachment, I filed and melted off the bolster (it is all lata underneath the bolster). Most of the lata from the handle had cracked and fell out. Heat from a carefully applied butane lighter/burner got more of the lati out. I have not tried it but a solder iron might have worked. I pried the handle apart and squirted in slow set (1 hour) epoxy and hose clamped the handle tight.

Will
 
Hose clamp? Of course, that's what I should have used. Thanks. I was trying to use a vise but a hose clamp would be better :)
 
Automotive type hose clamps work like a charm. But, you need to put some tape on the handle or you'll scratch it up with them.
 
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