A leatherworker's rivet setting punch works well. It has a small ball on the end, and a larger rounded surface. When you strike the punch, it rolls the rivet flange away from the center.
If you don't have a punch like that, just grind a taper on the end of a steel rod and make your own punch. The idea is for the tapered point to enter the rivet center hole, then as you strike the punch with a hammer, the serrated flange rolls open. Finish flattening the rivet with a flat headed punch. A larger punch with a ball end comes in handy after you've opened the flange with the first punch. The ball will flare it open further, then simply flatten it out with the flat punch.
So, make yourself two punches out of round bar stock. One tapered, one with a ball on one end and flat on the other end.
Back the rivet head up on something soft enough to prevent damaging the rivet head. Nylon, soft plastic, hard leather, something like that.