Flaring Manix 2 lanyard tube?

[knifeandgun]

Hello,
I recently added another user manix to my collection and was abit bummed upon close inspection.
I took it apart for the usual cleaning( without separating liners from lanyard tube) and noticed that when I put it all back together nice and tight the liners weren't flushed with the lanyard tube.
Its unnoticeable from holding it and even from a distance, but if you shake the knife slightly you can hear them knocking together. If you pull on them slightly they nearly come apart! Not only that, the G-10 even separates from the liners on 1 side so I have had to put a pocket clip screw to hold it in place.
So I have decided to flair the holes and hopefully fix the issue.
I have already purchased ball bearings that fit the size of the holes but before I go thru with my attempt I was curious if anyone else has done this before? Any tips would be appreciated
I know some of you might suggest contacting spyderco which is an option..but I prefer not to wait acouple weeks to get my knife back
also I wasnt sure if I should post here or in the spyderco sub forum. If thats the case please move me over mods!

thanks!
-Sebastian

 

[wiredbeans]

Possible to upload a couple pictures? I would use a little bit of white glue to hold it in place so it doesn't rattle, I have experienced this in PM2, Southard and many in similar construction... Once you have it apart it's hard to make the factory flair

 

[makariotes]

^thats a good suggestion, an option, if you're into reloading ammo, would be Ti lay the handle flat on your bench and run a case-mouth deburring tool on the pipe but backwards; same thing as running an oversized drill bit in the pipe backwards or in reverse. The pipe would need to be flush with the scales though. Just a thought, the ball bearing sounds like a good idea but I would have never thought about that...do plan on tapping it in the pipe?
As wiredbeans suggests, a picture would be useful.

 

[killgar]

I don't have a Manix, but when I saw the word "flaring" my first thought was a pair of ball bearings and a ballpeen hammer. Place one bearing on a hard surface, place one end of the tube over that bearing, place the other bearing on the other end of the tube, and tap it with the hammer.

Use a piece of masking tape to hold the bearings against the tube/knife so that they won't "jump" and roll onto the floor when you hit the top one with the hammer. It won't matter if there is a layer of tape between the bottom bearing and the base you use, or a layer of tape between the top bearing and the hammer. The tape won't be thick enough to cushion the blow and affect the flaring.

 

[makariotes]

I don't have a Manix, but when I saw the word "flaring" my first thought was a pair of ball bearings and a ballpeen hammer. Place one bearing on a hard surface, place one end of the tube over that bearing, place the other bearing on the other end of the tube, and tap it with the hammer.

Use a piece of masking tape to hold the bearings against the tube/knife so that they won't "jump" and roll onto the floor when you hit the top one with the hammer. It won't matter if there is a layer of tape between the bottom bearing and the base you use, or a layer of tape between the top bearing and the hammer. The tape won't be thick enough to cushion the blow and affect the flaring.

Sounds good to me!

 

[NJBillK]

What about after market scales?

I know of a source for some ano'd alum ones. If interested, shoot me a pm.
------
That said, Killgar supplied a rather elegant option.

 

[knifeandgun]

I don't have a Manix, but when I saw the word "flaring" my first thought was a pair of ball bearings and a ballpeen hammer. Place one bearing on a hard surface, place one end of the tube over that bearing, place the other bearing on the other end of the tube, and tap it with the hammer.

Use a piece of masking tape to hold the bearings against the tube/knife so that they won't "jump" and roll onto the floor when you hit the top one with the hammer. It won't matter if there is a layer of tape between the bottom bearing and the base you use, or a layer of tape between the top bearing and the hammer. The tape won't be thick enough to cushion the blow and affect the flaring.

Thats exactly what I was planning to do!
Let hope it goes well

 

[knifeandgun]

What about after market scales?

I know of a source for some ano'd alum ones. If interested, shoot me a pm.
------
That said, Killgar supplied a rather elegant option.

I have aftermarket scales on it atm, but thanks for the option!