flat grind angle help

I

itrade

Joined
Jul 3, 2002
Messages
645
OK I've shaped my D2 into a camp kinda knife. However, I didn't quite know that 3/16" is soo thick! So now I don't know what to do about the grind.

The blade dimensions are 5.5" long and about 1 3/16" at the thickest.

I don't have the stuff to hollow grind (which is probably what it needs), so I have to use a flat grind.

Question is: How wide should the grind be when complete? Too narrow and the blade won't cut. Too wide and the metal looses strength.

I was thinking to make the grind about 3/4 or 7/8", but don't know!?

There has to be some kinda 'norm' for these things.

Thanks,

Steve
 
Grind right up to the spine, following the edge will result in a natural distal taper. You'll like it.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave.

Here's a pic (Phil-style) of what it is supposed to look like. Fortunately it looks a bit better in real. I made the pic with 2 different grind lines. The top one is what I believe you suggested and the bottom one what what I was thinking.

knife75.jpg


However, I guess I was puzzled between looks and a functional blade geometery.

Steve
 
Those look good,But with a flat grind I would go all the way to the spine and only have the flat on the ricasso..
Just my opinion.
Bruce
 
Steve what you've drawn really is a hollow grind. I would grind straight up to the spine at the plunge and maintain that angle as you follow the shape of the edge around, kinda like you did on your number two sketch out toward the point. Hope this helps. This way you wouldn't have any flat part on the blade, just a flat ricasso as Bruce said. That's a nice looking knife by the way.

Dave
 
Steve great pictures. I like the artistic look of the bottom pic.

Purhaps another way to help you decide is what are you going to use the knife for.
My father is a butcher. He would not use a knife that was not ground all the way to the back edge because it is hard work if you have to push a wedge through meat allday.

Filleting fish is quite often with a thin flexable blade.

I would consider a knife with a wider angle would have a bit more stregth if you were going to chop branches in a camping setting.

I'm sure some of the professional makers on this site could give you a better answer there is probably a book known to one of them.

Can Anyone recomend a design book I'd like to have a look as well.

I'll look forward to the finished photo.
 
OK guys, full grind it is.

However, I'm so tickled I can't wait to post the final pics. So before I screw 'em up I'd like post my progress so far.

meknives.jpg


The top blade is ground as much as I plan on before heat treating (60%) of the way.

Steve
 
Yeah Steve, looks like you're having fun. Don't forget to drill all your holes before heat treating! :eek:

Dave
 
i have a ro the bone scar 2 3/4" long on the inside of my left index finger:eek: i am sure you can figure out what happened!:D also you might want to drop down the rear of the tang. just a little more rounded for the palm. you are on the road bud, :)
 
It's off for heat treating and I did drill the holes first, Dave! Man I can't wait.

Ooops Rhino, too late.

I didn't get your message in time, so I guess the handle shape is cast in martinsite, so to speak.

BTW the plunge cuts are terrible. I'm hoping I can clean them up after heat treat. I know you (Rhino) do alot of grinding after heat treating, so I'm hoping.

Steve
 
and breck the backing with a stick so you get a nice bend to clean the plunge cuts. allso tou can grind a little to drop the rear of the tang after HT.
 
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