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Flat Grind on Buck 110
- Thread starter ilvexyret
- Start date
afishhunter
Basic Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 14,434
Not a 110, but I do have the 2018 301 Blade Forum knife with flat grind, and a production 301 and a couple 371's with hollow grinds.
I don't notice any difference in cutting.
I mite be too insensitive to notice though, or I don't normally cut things that would have a noticeable difference in effort?
I don't notice any difference in cutting.
I mite be too insensitive to notice though, or I don't normally cut things that would have a noticeable difference in effort?
Last edited:
David Martin
Moderator
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2008
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- 19,520
The model that would compare closely to 110, would be a 317 or a 334. Both of those are flat grinds and the blades near the size of a 110.
I've compared these, head to head w/ a Buck workman. Which has a thin hollow grind and found the difference to be slight. Dm
I've compared these, head to head w/ a Buck workman. Which has a thin hollow grind and found the difference to be slight. Dm
The flat grind is NOT a full flat grind like you find on a Case Sodbuster. It's actually closer to the Scandi grind of a Mora.
Similar to a Mora, it's a great heavy duty blade. It works wood really well and I would trust the edge to not damage as easily as a thinner hollow grind like most Bucks.
On the other hand, you really need to know how to freehand sharpen on a stone and need to be willing to scrub down the entire bevel of the blade like you do with a scandi. Otherwise, if you just continue to micro-bevel the edge, the edge will get very thick very fast.
Like a Mora, mine is a terrible sliver of things like potatoes but that's to be expected and is not a ding. This is a hard use blade, not a winner of tomato thin slicing contests.
I'm in the process of conveying and thinning mine. I wish they used this grind on some of their outdoor fixed blade where the power of the Sabre-flat grind could be used for splitting (like a Mora). In this way, I think the blade is too powerful for the 110 handle. I'm not going to baton a lockback. Perhaps at some point, I'll get mine closer to Opinel thin/convex and that would be dandy.
Similar to a Mora, it's a great heavy duty blade. It works wood really well and I would trust the edge to not damage as easily as a thinner hollow grind like most Bucks.
On the other hand, you really need to know how to freehand sharpen on a stone and need to be willing to scrub down the entire bevel of the blade like you do with a scandi. Otherwise, if you just continue to micro-bevel the edge, the edge will get very thick very fast.
Like a Mora, mine is a terrible sliver of things like potatoes but that's to be expected and is not a ding. This is a hard use blade, not a winner of tomato thin slicing contests.
I'm in the process of conveying and thinning mine. I wish they used this grind on some of their outdoor fixed blade where the power of the Sabre-flat grind could be used for splitting (like a Mora). In this way, I think the blade is too powerful for the 110 handle. I'm not going to baton a lockback. Perhaps at some point, I'll get mine closer to Opinel thin/convex and that would be dandy.