Flat grinding question

D

Diggerdog

Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
173
So far most of my blades have been ground on the wheel. For blade profiling and hollow grind the wheel provides a nice smooth backing. But when I want to flat grind I do it against the steel platen. Every time the belt goes around the seam makes an annoying bump. It is just a constant rythm of bumps. Is there any way to get around this to make flat grinding a little smoother? Any suggestions about flat grinding would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Dave
 
My experience has been that it is less of a problem at coarser grits with more rigid backings on the belts. The absolute best belts I have found for eliminating the bump are Norton Norax in "finishing grits". They have a thick but supple backing and work great. Another belt to investigate are the "Gators", which I believe are 3M Trizact CF (someone correct me if I'm wrong, please), but Pop's didn't carry anything finer than 400.

There is graphite cloth you can put on the platen but I don't personally like the stuff. Others have used leather and even mouse pad.
 
fitzo said:
My experience has been that it is less of a problem at coarser grits with more rigid backings on the belts. The absolute best belts I have found for eliminating the bump are Norton Norax in "finishing grits". They have a thick but supple backing and work great. Another belt to investigate are the "Gators", which I believe are 3M Trizact CF (someone correct me if I'm wrong, please), but Pop's didn't carry anything finer than 400.

There is graphite cloth you can put on the platen but I don't personally like the stuff. Others have used leather and even mouse pad.
Click to expand...

I completely agree with fitzo. I played with a lot of belts over the years, but never found anything as long lived and smooth running as the Norax belts, especially in the really fine grits. I keep a spare platen for my BIII that has a thick piece of leather bonded in place. The leather holds up for a long time, but when it needs replacing, it is easy to strip off and replace. Use a bit of Barge or other contact cement. The leather completely removes the "butt" slap from the splice. Used in conjunction with a Norax belt, it is a completely smooth operation for flat grinding. With a VS grinder, you can do without the leather padding using Norax belts, because of their thickness. You give up a little speed without the leather, but the Norax works fine against a steel platen at slow speeds.
 
I've used the graphite belting for many years and like it just fine. I apply it with rubber cement.

TKS has it in their catalog. I just ordered and received 12 feet of it.

No matter what kind of belt I'm using you can't feel the splice and it makes a nice cushion when you track the belt over to the edge to clean up your plunge lines.

So there, Fitzo, take that, my old friend.:p Happy new year. :D

I've been spending most of my forum time on the Knet for the last few years and miss the interchange of information with you guys.

By the way, Fitz, the Remecaid treatments do work great for me. :D
 
Don Robinson said:
I've used the graphite belting for many years and like it just fine. I apply it with rubber cement.

So there, Fitzo, take that, my old friend.:p Happy new year. :D

I've been spending most of my forum time on the Knet for the last few years and miss the interchange of information with you guys.

By the way, Fitz, the Remecaid treatments do work great for me. :D
Click to expand...

Hi, Don! Happy 2006 to you, too!

I wouldn't have even mentioned the graphite based on my own like, but I know there are people who do like it. So, in all fairness, it had to be mentioned. :) Now we have your testimony, and Diggerdog knows it is worth considering!

I'm way happy the Remecaid is helping, Don! That's an IV once a month, correct? The Humira I take is an injection every two weeks I do myself. It has helped me a great deal. "Better living through chemistry!" :) I'm very grateful they discovered these things. It has slowed a very rapid downhill slide for me.

Hope it helps you as much as it has me! Glad to see you here!
 
You can get a ceramic platen to glue onto yours from Darren Ellis Supply. I use it and several others I know. You can also "true" it up on a 6X48 belt sander. Watch dust and so forth behind the belt. Also, if you use the ceramic.....use JB weld to put it on... it does not degrade with heat.. Trust me on that... used it on radiators, engine block/manifold.... but did not help seal my ex's mouth... just not that durable...... (joke)

Later,

Daniel Prentice
 
Me I don't even notice the bump any more. Not much any way. I love the ceramanic platten linner, Darren Ellis is good people to do buisness with.

I like the way the graphite works, but it's too much hassel for me to use with my Coote. No spare platten, maybe I should make one?

I normaly go from 60 or 80 grit to 220 silicon carbid then a few passes with a 400 trizac. Then to hand sanding to true up my grinds.
 
Having just started, I won't recommend any belt brands, as I've only used two (and 4 x 36 at that).

I will say, though, the belts can make a HUGE difference. The first sets I bought were from the local Rona (like a home depot). I thought they were OK, even though they sound like a train on a railroad track.

The second sets I ordered from lee valley -- what a difference!! Not only smoother running, but they grind at least twice as fast, and, so far, have lasted twice as long and are still going.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top