Flat or hollow?

dantzk8

Basic Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
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1,953
Hi all,

I plan to buy a 3" to 4" folder. It will be used mainly in the woods as a backup of a fixed blade for slicing, push cutting, splitting hardwood (hornbeam) as well as softwood (birch). Ordinary tasks may become hard use when i'm tired and then awkward. The list of the knives i've though about can be divided in two sublists: flat ground geometry blades and hollow ground geometry blades. I own or have owned those two kinds of blades . I have a preference for the flat ground but i notice great makers like Chris Reeve, Rick Hinderer, John Greco or Kevin Wilkins use the hollow one.

From your experience what are advantages/ disadvantages of those two grounds for my needs?

Thanks for your help.

dantzk.
 
For a lot of tasks it doesn't matter much, but for the woodworking tasks you describe I would most definately go with flat ground. It offers more control and consistent wood splitting in my use. Woodworking is probably the main area where flat will excel over hollow.
 
I personally prefer flat grinds over hollow grinds for outdoor work, but it's hardly a deal breaker for me. A well-done hollow grind is also very good, and even presents advantages under certain conditions. There are many factors that I would consider to be more important than hollow grind vs. flat grind.
 
Buzzbait said:
I There are many factors that I would consider to be more important than hollow grind vs. flat grind.

Agreed, I am with Buzz on that one. I also prefer flat to hollow for wood working, however.... it would'nt be a deal breaker for me. A good hollow grind with the correct secondary edge angle can and will work well for most wood working. Good luck:thumbup:
 
True, Buck 110's are a shining example of that. They work well for woodworking considering the nature of their grind. Flatgrinds are usually more consistent, wheras hollow grinds it's kind of hit or miss as to how well it will work for the task.
 
Buzzbait said:
I personally prefer flat grinds over hollow grinds for outdoor work, but it's hardly a deal breaker for me. A well-done hollow grind is also very good, and even presents advantages under certain conditions. There are many factors that I would consider to be more important than hollow grind vs. flat grind.


Yes, i can see somes advantages: slicing ability due to a thin edge, chopping ability on hardwood and the drawback: brittleness when twisting. You are right about more important factors as the steel toughness. What is a well-done hollow grind? The only one i really know is the very light one of the tough 1095 carbonsteel Douk-Douk. I notice, however, you prefer, and Vivi has the same opinion, flat grinds.

Thanks.

dantzk.
 
dantzk8 said:
I plan to buy a 3" to 4" folder. It will be used mainly in the woods as a backup of a fixed blade for slicing, push cutting, splitting hardwood (hornbeam) as well as softwood (birch).

...

From your experience what are advantages/ disadvantages of those two grounds for my needs?

If you are splitting woods then hollow grinds as typically used on folders tend to not be productive because the wood will bind around the edge and then get compressed near the spine and thus they don't work very well. It also weakens the edge because it will tend to concentrate forces around it if the edge hits a knot in the woods.

For general cutting the performance will depend strongly on how the grind tapers to the edge and produces a given thickness and the final sharpening angle. In many of the cases where people promote grinds they are actually seeing more of the influence of the edge geometry than anything else.

But in general for the above type of use which covers both cutting/splitting, as Vivi noted a flat ground blade tend to be more effective as an overall compromise.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
If you are splitting woods then hollow grinds as typically used on folders tend to not be productive because the wood will bind around the edge and then get compressed near the spine and thus they don't work very well. It also weakens the edge because it will tend to concentrate forces around it if the edge hits a knot in the woods.

For general cutting the performance will depend strongly on how the grind tapers to the edge and produces a given thickness and the final sharpening angle. In many of the cases where people promote grinds they are actually seeing more of the influence of the edge geometry than anything else.

But in general for the above type of use which covers both cutting/splitting, as Vivi noted a flat ground blade tend to be more effective as an overall compromise.

-Cliff

That makes sense to me. I had empirically verified it. Flat grinds,for any task, assuming the cross section of the edge is thin enough and , in the same time, tough enough and shouldered enough, has always seemed to me the right compromise. I'm a "one knife" user or better said: a knife must do the job. More or less quickly, more or less comfy,but the job has to be done. so i will go with a flat grind.

Vivi, Buzzbait, Tarmix, Cliff, as usually, it has been instructive to read you.

Thanks to you.

dantzk.
 
Vivi said:
For a lot of tasks it doesn't matter much, but for the woodworking tasks you describe I would most definately go with flat ground. It offers more control and consistent wood splitting in my use. Woodworking is probably the main area where flat will excel over hollow.[/QUOTE

For food prep the flat ground is also the best choise.
 
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