Flat Platen design for GIB??? Help?

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Feb 4, 2011
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I have a GIB coming in the mail From Jamie with a motor and VFD from Wayne Coe. I already have all my contact wheels, a drive wheel etc.
I'm picking up my 1-1/2" solid square tube tomorrow for the tool arms and tool rest.

Question. I am getting both the multi platen and standard platen.
platens.jpg

What material should I make the flat platen from. :confused: I have the fireplace glass from Tracy. I see flat platens on No-Weld, EERF and GIB's made from ton's of different stock. Angle iron, flat steel welded to square tube, tools steel, etc. I there a basic design that allows for easy adjustment to get it square? Should I make it from a basic mild steel angle iron and face it with tool steel? I might at a later time want to make a radiused flat platen as my skills develop...

I have done a dozen searches and this is the one subject I'm struggling to find answers to. :eek:

So, in addition to my 1-1/2" solid square steel what do I need?



Thanks, Brian
 
Hey man, I'm not saying this is the right thing to do, but I'll tell you what I did and what I think of it. I used a 9" length of 3" x 2 1/2" angle iron and a 9" length of 3/4" x 2"mild steel and (since I don't have a welder) drilled and tapped the 3/4" steel and ran (4) 1/4"-20 bolts through the angle and the 3/4" steel and then ground the protruding bolts flush. So now I have a 9" length of 3" x 2 1/2" angle with a 3/4" "protrusion" of mild steel that lines up with the contact wheels. To the 3/4" steel I JB welded my ceramic platen and let it cure (after I radiused the edges of the ceramic). I have been using it like this for a couple weeks now and it seems to be working great so far! I'm at school right now so I can't take any pics but if you'd like I can take some once I get home.

FWIW I'm really happy I went with the GIB and really kicking myself for not going with a VFD!
 
There are many options. I used a piece of angle iron for mine that I slotted to allow adjustment forwards and back. To the angle iron, I attached a beefy piece of steel. I could grind against that steel, but it's mild and I don't want to reflatten it. So, to that piece, I've attached a piece of hardened tool steel.

Jamie
 
Whatever route you go, make sure you put a ledge (welded or bolted) for your ceramic to rest on in case the adhesive lets go from heat.
 
Ceramic liner will wear longer than a steel platen (hardened or not) but can break if impacted. A platen made out of hardneed tool steel will wear and need to be flattened once in a while but will not break unless you really try hard. A mild steel one will wear pretty quickly and sooner or later will make you wish you had used option #1 or #2.
 
I just used some angle and a flat piece of steel 2" wide.
Chris

GIB4.jpg


GIB2.jpg
 
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