Flat steal for a blade

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FLYBYU44

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Jul 8, 2006
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I thinking of building a small fixed blade for myself, nothing too fancy. I was wondering if anyone knew of some common flat steel that would make a good knife blade. I can't forge it and I have limited power tools so it will mostly be done by hand with a small hand grinder or file. I've ground blades out of old files before when I was a kid. In fact I think I still have one somewhere that I made. I'm trying to think of what would work good. For instance a friend of mine made a machete out of an old chainsaw bar. Thanks for any help.
 
1095 is what I've used so far. I made the knife I carry out of 1095, and it's been a pretty good knife. I don't know as well as some of the more experienced members here do, but Admiral Steel had the best prices I've seen so far,on 1095 at least.
 
It sounds like you're looking for junkyard steels to practice with. Buying a known steel to use is wise, but I understand the lure of playing with mystery steel. Leaf springs are usually (note I said usually, not always) good blade steel, often 5160 but not always. The files you mentioned are also usually good steel, often 1095 or W1.
 
Sending you an email, FLYBYU44.
Mike

Edit: Oops! No I'm not. You've got the option turned off that allows people to email you. It's really better to have it on, just for situations like this. It doesn't reveal your email address to the people contacting you, unless you reply to them. It also doesn't publish it anywhere that google (and therefore spammers) can find it. Nothing to lose and lots to gain.

Anyhow, I can send you a foot or two of 1080 for just a couple bucks (to cover the gas down to the post office, basically- the steel really doesn't cost much at all).
That way you'll have a known steel, which, as has been mentioned, is important.
If you're interested, drop me a line, mscantrell at gmail.com
:)
 
Go with the 01. a lot less work for what you are doing, and it is much superior to any of the others mentioned.
 
All of these steels are good for a stock removal. They will come in an annealed state (unhardened). You will also need to consider how or who will harden and temper the blade for you.
 
MSCantrell said:
Sending you an email, FLYBYU44.
Mike

Edit: Oops! No I'm not. You've got the option turned off that allows people to email you. It's really better to have it on, just for situations like this. It doesn't reveal your email address to the people contacting you, unless you reply to them. It also doesn't publish it anywhere that google (and therefore spammers) can find it. Nothing to lose and lots to gain.

Anyhow, I can send you a foot or two of 1080 for just a couple bucks (to cover the gas down to the post office, basically- the steel really doesn't cost much at all).
That way you'll have a known steel, which, as has been mentioned, is important.
If you're interested, drop me a line, mscantrell at gmail.com
:)
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Thankyou for the offer, I think that I will wait on this for a while though, it's more of something that I want to try this summer more then anything, I will make sure and turn that option on as well. Also thanks for all the other suggestions guys, I'm not sure if I will try this, but I have a few sites saved now for when I decide to give it a try.
 
MDG said:
All of these steels are good for a stock removal. They will come in an annealed state (unhardened). You will also need to consider how or who will harden and temper the blade for you.
Click to expand...

Thats's why I do all my steel here in my shop. That way I know what it is. Not what someone tells me it is. When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who maked his knives from start to finish.

Barkes :)
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop.htm
1.812.526.6390
 
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