flattening Edge Pro stones

[KarlMaldensNose]

I know about using wet/dry paper, brick, cinder blocks, diamond hones, and all the other methods. But if you had to choose one of the two methods presented below, regardless of price, what would you pick for leveling EP 120, 220, 320, and 600 stones? I am aware that it's mostly the 120, 220, and 320 that dish to the point of requiring flattening.

First, is silicon carbide lapping grit on glass. And if this method is your choice, which one or two grits would it be between 90x, 180x, 280x, 400x, and 600x? Here is a link for what I have access to.

Second, is this truing stone for waterstones, made by Norton, I think. Unfortunately its grit is not listed, but we do know that it's also silicon carbide, only in bonded form. Here is the link for this product, also to which I have access.

 

[Lucky Bob]

I took the easy way out and got the flattening kit from EdgePro. Nice piece of thick, rubber-edged plate glass and 90 grit (I think, no real clue) loose SiC grit. What I love, although I probably *shouldn't* is that if you flatten one of finer stones, that dressed surface at least feels like it's cutting faster, without making any difference I can tell in the finish it leaves on the steel.

Reading back, not sure how much any of that helps you... but oh well.

 

[changeofseasons]

I flatten the 120, 220, and 320 (in that order) all with the course SiC provided by Edge Pro. I just use a flat section of concrete just outside my shop. Then I use the glass with the appropriate grit wet/dry PSA backed SiC paper stuck to it to finish the stones back to the right level of coarseness. The 600 to 1000 stones, I just use the wet/dry paper method when they get loaded with too much steel. Even though I don't do it, flattening on diamond stones also works.

 

[stitchawl]

Second, is this truing stone for waterstones, made by Norton, I think. Unfortunately its grit is not listed, but we do know that it's also silicon carbide, only in bonded form. Here is the link for this product, also to which I have access.

I use something like this, (it's not a Norton) that I bought for $10 at a local hardware store. The grit of the truing stone isn't important. Even though it's much rougher than your fine stones, and leaves them feeling rough, they still only cut to the grit they are made from. The roughness you feel is just the pits and valleys between the grains.

I've also never found any need to flatten other stones than my 120 and 220. I don't sharpen professionally, so doing 30-50 knives a year makes these stones last a long time. The 120 I've had to do twice over the years, but then, I don't feel the need to have stones plate-glass flat. I watch these old Japanese craftsmen sharpening on stones that might be dished out a full 1/8 inch. I do know that many people flatten stones after every use though. I liken it to car tinkerers... Ever notice them? Always adjusting their cars. No real reason to do it, but then, no real reason not to!

Stitchawl

 

[Splat]

I remember guys using DMT silver/120grit and some use black/220grit diamond stones for lapping. I got tired of worrying about that and rigged up some diamond stones to mounting plates to use with my EP. They definitely cut quicker than the EP stones but can also mar the blade's finish more quickly, too. You just have to be careful.