Flattening Venev Diamond Stones

Joined
Dec 27, 2018
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Happy New Year All!

I've been watching some YouTube videos on flattening Venev diamond and other stones and one method includes using a glass plate with water and silicon carbide grits. What type of glass is the best to use, tempered, not tempered, or does it matter, and how thick should it be? I've been able to find almost everything else on the subject except this. One person said "plate glass" but later referred to it as "tempered" but those 2 types of glass are not the same. I'd appreciate any input and suggestions.

Thanks again!
Randy
 
Nothing special with the glass, 3/16" would be thick enough as long as it is supported, 1/4" would be safer. The surface just needs to be flat, it doesn't need to be glass. Your only grinding away the resin so brown AlOx works better than Sic, it's less friable, but both work fine.
 
It's the Future ! :thumbsup:
Stupid question . . . and I haven't purchased any of these stones yet so forgive me if it is in the literature with the stone . . . but how do the stones respond to honing oil ? Say . . . Nortons to grab an example out of the air.
I'm a water stone user from way back but lately I have been glancing at honing oil (used on Arkansas stones ).
Thanks
Happy New Year !
 
It's the Future ! :thumbsup:
Stupid question . . . and I haven't purchased any of these stones yet so forgive me if it is in the literature with the stone . . . but how do the stones respond to honing oil ? Say . . . Nortons to grab an example out of the air.
I'm a water stone user from way back but lately I have been glancing at honing oil (used on Arkansas stones ).
Thanks
Happy New Year !
Being a phenolic bond I would think oil would be fine. I think the cnc grinders used to make cabide tools use phenolic bond diamond wheels and they prefer oil to keep things cool and lubricated.
 
Being a phenolic bond I would think oil would be fine. I think the cnc grinders used to make cabide tools use phenolic bond diamond wheels and they prefer oil to keep things cool and lubricated.
Fascinating !
Thanks !

PS: sounds like the door is open for you to come out with some proprietary Super "coolant" Cutting Fluid just for your stones ! ?
I'm finding many of the people here who really know their stuff prefer oil . . .
 
I used the Edge Pro Leveling Kit on the Venev 150 and 2000 just this afternoon, actually. I used the 250 grit AlOx powder. Seems to have worked well.
 
Fascinating !
Thanks !

PS: sounds like the door is open for you to come out with some proprietary Super "coolant" Cutting Fluid just for your stones ! ?
I'm finding many of the people here who really know their stuff prefer oil . . .
Just use water.

Remember,
K.I.S.S

:D
 
I will get some Norton honing oil and play with it to make sure it is compatible with the Matrix stones. I am pretty sure it is but if there are going to be any surprises I want it to happen to me.

Not sure how relevant this is but I have talked with a machinist who worked in a shop that ran only oil in their cnc machines. He said that when the shop switched from water based coolant to straight oil the life of their cutting tools doubled, this is a hugh difference. Getting a 20% improvement in tool life from a change in coolant is a big deal, 100% is staggering.
 
Not that surprising really. Oil is obviously a far better lubricant. Most of the high production machines (screw machines) back in the old days used oil exclusively as a cutting fluid and tool life was outstanding. When machine tool manufacturers made the switch to focus on high production levels over tool life, that's when water based coolant became far more prevalent. The much higher speeds used with tungsten carbide tooling kind of necessitate water based coolant just so the shop doesn't get smoked out and so the machines don't light on fire. Oil is flammable, especially so as a vapor, which can happen very easily when it's being sprayed around in a machine tool.

In a production environment they're worried more about how many parts that they can produce and how fast. Tool life has taken a back seat since the indexable tools make it so easy and relatively cheap to change the cutting edge. Most operators also prefer not to have to breathe oil smoke and be grubby with oil all day. Oil is still the preferred cutting fluid for all steel cutting tools.
 
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I think dry is the preferred method of at least milling steel, and I have worked on a couple Hardinge lathes that ran oil, it gets EVERYWHERE!!!

Newsflash- I just tried using sand to dress some new 80 grit Matrix stones since the 250 grit AlOx was just not up to the task, way too fine for these stones. I think I may be onto something, the sand works wonderfully. It seems really rough but I am not seeing the thickness of the stones drop at all, even after grinding on them for a few minutes. The one Venev 150 I dressed months ago was very wear resistant to dressing as well so try some washed sand from the hardware store, probably the finer the better, for your coarser grits. Mine I got along the road a few miles from home. This super coarse abrasive works better for the coaser stones, I wouldn't want to use it for the finer grits, at least not until is was ground up by the coarser stones. My sand was also lasting a lot longer than the AlOx.
 
I will get some Norton honing oil and play with it to make sure it is compatible with the Matrix stones. I am pretty sure it is but if there are going to be any surprises I want it to happen to me.

Not sure how relevant this is but I have talked with a machinist who worked in a shop that ran only oil in their cnc machines. He said that when the shop switched from water based coolant to straight oil the life of their cutting tools doubled, this is a hugh difference. Getting a 20% improvement in tool life from a change in coolant is a big deal, 100% is staggering.
Save your money David,the Norton oil is just relabeled food grade mineral oil. You can get it at Walgreens or any other pharmacy store for cheap.
 
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