flint on steel execution requirement

If we're talking true flint (rocks from the ground) and not artificial flint (ferrocerium) then carbon steels with rockwell hardness above 58 work best since it gives the user the ability to make sparks every time a smooth portion of the steel is struck along a sharp edge on the flint. If the knife has this capability then surprisiningly it will not scuff the knife up that much (sure it's going to scratch it up some). This is due to the rockwell hardness. The softer knives will scuff up quickly and will be a real bitch to repeatedly get a spark your tinder can catch and hold (if at all). The softer the steel the more tendancy it has to catch the sharp edge of your flint and break it.

Artificial flint will strike on just about any hard surface such as glass, stainless steels, rocks, etc.

Artificial flint produces much hotter sparks than true flint, thus giving the user the ability to start a fire in un-prepared tinders. True flint requires char or a true tinder fungus to start a coal.

Jeff
 
A.C.

Frosts make excellent knives but that one will not work as a striker, artificial or natural, as it is made of laminated steel. This means the outer layer of steel is too soft to work as a striker. An alternative is the Frosts mora S1 which is available in carbon steel, should be fine as a striker.

Will
 
I disagree. The laminated steel will work for artificial flint. Even soft steels will work as long as they have a sharp edge to strike the ferrocerium.
 
Rockymountain

I have a Helle Eggen made of laminated steel that will not work on a swedish army firesteel, despite the spine having a sharp 90 degree to bite into it, what knife are you using?

Will
 
Willadams,

I'll second that, my Eggen doesn't throw sparks on a Light My Fire large Military Firesteel either.
The Soft composition of the ferrocium even scratched up the blad considerably when I tried it just once.

Our scouting group just received a new batch of Light-My-Fire Firesteels (Large Military and some Scout) and they upgraded the Firesteels again, the black rope used to hold the Striker to the Firesteel used to be closed by a knoth, well they modernized this by a small plastic tab holding the 2 rope ends together, just like one sees with zipper pulls. This really looks cool and also makes the 'package' smaller as the knoth took up 'a lot' of space.


Best Scouting wishes from Holland,

Bagheera
 
Unless your intrest is stictly in primitive methods I would recommend you look at magnesium firestarting blocks from Coulgans Ltd. in Canada, they can be found at most sporting goods stores or military surplus stores. Mine has always worked off of carbon steel knives,I dont know if it would work the same with stainless or not. Pose the question to Jeff Randall, maybe he can answer it for both of us.
 
Nearly every stainless knife I have tried on ferrocerium (the rod in the magnesium block) will throw great sparks if you have a good edge to scrape the ferro. As far as the Helle Eggen not throwing a spark from the ferro from the laminated side....well...ok then strike it with the working edge of your knife. That will work, so it will serve the user well as a survival striker if need be.

I also agree that unless someone is interested in primtive skills then ferrocerium is the way to go. What I do like about true flint and steel (primtive method) is it teaches the absolute basics of good fire building which helps a great deal in every other form of fire making, especially when conditions are sub-par.
 
This is for Jeff, I wonder what your take is on the bow and drill method of fire starting? I have always wanted to learn how to do it that way but have never found a local capable instructor. By the way Jeff, I have followed your work for some time in ASG and SRJ, I'm impressed with your desire to teach, Keep it up.
 
Bowdrill or hand drill is a great way to build confidence and teach good fire making skills - just like true flint and steel. Personally I like the hand drill better since it's usually quicker for me to kick out a coal. Of course it takes getting callouses on your hands to get good with this. Plus your materials have to be prepared and right for the hand drill to work best. We have taught many folks this method of fire making. Some of them we have taught over the internet through our discussion forum. If you're interested in learning how through cyber channels then drop on over to our forum at http://www.jungletraining.com/forums and open up a new topic under the primitve skills forum. The moderator there - Darryl Patton and George Hedgepeth are two of the best in the primtive pyromanic business. They'll probably even mail you some materials to get you started.

BTW: thanks for the comments but I'm a better learner than teacher. I enjoy introducing new things to people but it seems like I always learn as much as they do ;)

Jeff
 
A friend and I started our fire earlier this spring using a Civil War replica steel striker and a piece of local jasper that we found on our hike. It was great! I have since tried to strike sparks using other pieces of steel, but have had very little luck. I assume that it's the hardness (or lack thereof) that prevents me from getting a good spark consistently.

Would anyone be able to list some common household or farm items that would be hard enough to strike a spark off of natural flint?
 
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