Flintknapping - anyone tried it?

bae

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Nov 21, 2001
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Seems to me that knowing how to "roll your own" knife, spear, fishhook, or axe could be a valuable survival skill.

Has anyone here had experience in making your own stone implements? Any good resources you could recommend?

I flailed away at this several times in my deluded youth, but never got very far.
 
I have tried it, and if you have the right kind of rock, it is not too hard to make a usable cutting instrument, but it takes quite a bit of skill to make a good arrowhead or fishook, etc.
A good book is "Flintknapping: The Art of Making Stone Tools" by Paul Hellweg. It's only $5.95, too!
The important thing is to use the right stone, the more like glass it is the better. What allows control over the chipping is the 'conchoidal fracture' that only occurs in very fine grained rocks. This is why obsidian, volcanic glass, works so well. Chalcedony, and obviously, flint, also work well. You can use thick wine bottle bottoms to make some really nice tools.

Also: WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! and a pair of thick leather gloves dedicated solely to knapping would be a good idea, as they will get microscopic pieces of glass in them.
Glass can theoretically fracture down to an edge one molecule thick. In practice, it is much sharper than steel, and it is used in some scalpels for eye surgery because of this.
 
I've played around with it, and feel confident enough to make a sharp rock. Hell, we survived centuries with that kind of technology. I've made a stone axe, and I think that's about all I'll ever need it for.
Granted, it isn't a high priority in the things I'm learning to survive should I have to. I'm trying to make sure I've got the things I need on me, but I could see how I'd get caught without a hatchet. As for arrow heads, I can make barbed fire hardened points. That ought to be good enough for a rabbit, or squirrel.
 
I have been flintkapping since I was a teenager. Here in the west we have an abundance of obsidian, agate and jasper, so there's plenty of material to work on. If you are going to use chalcedony (agate, jasper, chert, etc.) you should learn first about firing it. Firing is a process that slowly heats and cools the stone so that the microcrystaline structure realligns enough to give you better control over your flakes.

Start out with obsidian and glass just to get the techniques down, then branch out to other materials.

If you want to go full primitive, your percussion tools should be stones or bone/antler billets. Your pressure-flaking tool should be antler or bone. If you are not that concerned about historical or cultural accuracy copper also makes a good tool.

Also look into pecking and grinding as ways to shape raw materials. The Indians used bone and wood for arrowheads much more than they used stone, but since these artifacts decay all we find are the stone remains, thus leading us to the conclusion that arrowheads are all made of stone. If you learn to shape bone, shell and wood you'll be much more equipped for survival than if you learn to shape stone.

I'm not an expert on this topic, but I am fairly knowledgeable. Feel free to email me directly if you wish.

CV
 
Coyo-

Ive got a question for ya. Basically, Percussion flaking. It seems to be real hit and miss (mostly miss). How can one learn to go with the "grain" of the stone (I use obsidian), and get a useable flake to do pressure work on? The ones I get seem to be just smaller "chunks" of stone that dont work well for points. They also seem to not lend themselves to being thinned down barring outright grinding. Any ideas on what to read or better technique? NW
 
Northwind,

Sorry for the long post. Rough percussion flaking is my greatest areas of challenge, but here's what I can offer:

Grinding is actually one of the best tips I could give. When you break off a spall it leaves a sharp edge that you need to grind away before breaking off your next spall. If you don't grind it off, your blow will just shatter the edge into oblivion without running a decent chip. Grinding should be done even when you are pressure flaking.

Grinding the edge will also help you avoid hitting a "shelf," which is when the spall ends at a break-off point that looks like a small ridge running perpendicular to the spall across the face of your core. Once you get a shelf on your core all other spalls will end at that point unless you can remove it by breaking off a spall that runs the same direction as the shelf, thereby "lifting" the shelf off the core.

Also be sure you have a good platform to strike. If your core is too blocky you might want to break it in half just to get some good striking surfaces. Of course your spalls would then be smaller, but it would give you better control.

As far as the grain of the stone, the clearer the stone the less grain it will have. Mohogany obsidian is hard to chip smoothly because it is heavily grained. Source is also very important. I have some obsidian from the lava flows at Newberry Crater (collected before it became illegal). It is so full of bubbles and froth that I can't get a decent spall. Then several years ago I went out to Glass Butte and got a bunch of obsidian and it's like night and day from the Newberry Crater stuff. Glass Butte is about the best I've seen.

A good tip that I was given years ago is to try to run the chips between your fingers. For example, if you have a piece of obsidian resting in your hand (on leather, of course), try to position your fingers to either side of where you want the chip to come off. This will encourage the energy of the strike/pressure to run through the stone instead of absorbing into your hand. I wouldn't say that this is the key to success, but it has helped me quite a bit.

Above all, practice, practice, practice. I sometimes sit on a stump or rock and just spend time breaking stone. Even if I don't make anything I'm still getting to know the breakage patterns and learning how to read the material, and I'll usually walk away with some great spalls to chip down later on. Of course I also walk away leaving a huge pile of obsidian debris behind, so don't do this in an area where small children will be wandering about. Or put down a tarp so that you can pick up your tailings when you're done.

cv
 
All I want to say here for now is do not breath in the burnt smelling air.....That is micro blades to you lungs, silca dust....it will cut your lungs to slivers......Mac
 
Thanks everyone for all your tips!

I'll let you know how it goes when I give it a try.
 
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