Fliping the edge grind

Hey guys. this post is to gain a little knowledge. Why did Jerry put the flat side of his grind on the outside of the blade (outside meaning to the right side while facing the spine). I know that this edge design was to make the edge stronger and easier to sharpen on top of everything but it seems to be on the wrong side to me. I am right handed, (I figure most of Jerry's customers are... no offense to you lefties out there) and when I sharpen my knives I do it free hand sliding the edge across my bench stones. Being right handed it is easier to lay the blade down and slice away from myself to get the inside and slice towards myslef (YIKES!) to get the outside of the grind). But with this grind the side you sharpen is the one where you must slice towards yourself, which for me and I assume all other righties is the more challenging of the two sides to hone. Perhaps I am just strange that way. It just turns out that the only side on a Busse that one must hone is the hardest one for me to work with. By having it in this configuration does this yield the best cutting performance or is that just the side Jerry Picked. what do you guys think. I am just now getting to the point to where I can restore my factory edge. But it is still a challenge every time I do it. Seems like having the flat side on the inside of the blade would have made it a joy to shaprpen and a whole lot easier for 75% of Busse customers (pulled that number out of the air by assuming 75% of us were righties). And maybe I am just a retard when it comes to sharpening. But it has always seemed to me that the inside of the blade was the easiest to sharpen cause you push the edge away from yourself and you can constantly see how much air is between the spine and the hone keeping your angle exact and minute rice perfect all the time. And the same goes for stroping on the other side. Since you go edge trailing you can safely pull the knife away from you. Just a thought. what do you guys think?

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First impressions are usually the scale by which we are judged unless we make our second with something sharp and pointy.
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[Strabs]

Jeez, what a tard

 

[Copis]

Ryu,
If you sharpen on a bench stone it feels awkward! I feel that bench stones create a HUGE burr. But if you use a ceramic rod it works beautifully! Or even a Sharpmaker works beautifully. (just use one side with a white rod). Andy gave some instructions on how to use a sharpmaker for the assymetrical edge (awhile back). Ceramic rods (with mild hand pressure) create a tiny burr that is easy to strop off. This creates a SHARP edge.I hope this helps, It definetely helped me and I know Im a certified idiot! good luck and keep us posted
Bill

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It is all Greek to me

 

[muzzleup]

ryu, I don't know how you are looking at the blade, but my BM-E has the flat grind on the left as you look at the spine with the tip facing up. Also I think the recommended sharpening sequence is to "hone",(using a ceramic hone ), the flat edge pulling the blade away from the edge to form the slight burr and then strop the radius edge by pushing the blade away from the edge on the strop.
Now, I could be screwed up in my understanding of the recommended method so I hope someone will set me right if I am.

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Ron,
Bremerton, Washington

[This message has been edited by muzzleup (edited 10-22-2000).]

 

Steeling is to keep the edge maintained though isn't it. You have to use various abrasive hones after you have chopped down a couple of trees with your BM don't you? Will steeling return a dull blade to razor sharp without honing? I'm pretty sure all my knives have the flat side on the outside of the blade. Anyway suggesting the sharpmaker (which I own and use often) Do you guys use the base that comes with it? Or do you freehand? If you freehand do you slide the blade on the hone or do you use the rod as a file and slide it across the blade. I always thought it was best to sharpen by basically trying to slice the surface of your hone at as little a angle as possible or at least the angle that renders the best edge. But lets not get away from the main poin of this post which was to find out if fliping the edge geo would sacrifice performance and if it would make sharpening even easier or does the present config make for the easiest sharpening possible and I'm just a tard (Strabs you smart ass!

)LOL

 

[Copis]

I use the base and I also position the white rod so the point touches the blade as opposed to the flat side of the rod. only do this on the flat side! I start at the bottom of the rod (where it meets the base) with the heel of the blade. I move up and conclude at the top of the rod with the point of the blade. Gently otherwise you will have a huge strong burr. Then strop. Its kinda the opposite of the sharpmaker recomended use.
I own a BM, BA, and MS with convex edges. I also own 2 E-SHs and a LMS with asymetrical edges! I was sceptical about the as. edge but now I love it!
I see no reason for change (remember Im an idiot)
Bill

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It is all Greek to me

 

[muzzleup]

copis, I like your way! Your way will help to keep the point from getting rounded which can be a problem with the SharpsMaker. Bringing the point towards you so that it pulls away from the stone instead of hitting the stone as it moves from the edge to hit the flat area of the hone. Maybe I am pulling too hard though. I have screwed the base of mine down to my bench and use both hands to keep the blade in a horizontal plane.
Thanks again for the instructions.



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Ron,
Bremerton, Washington

 

[muzzleup]

Ryu, I did not intend to use the term "steeling" but rather intended to indicate "honing". It seem that chopping just a few trees would not take that much of a toll on the Busse so that you had to "hand grind" on a stone to bring the edge to a burr. Unless you are chopping nails

However you do it, if it satisfies you then its the right way.
Good Luck


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Ron,
Bremerton, Washington

 

[Copis]

Cant take the credit! Andy Prisco is da man!
Bill

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It is all Greek to me

 

Not sure what kinda trees I was cutting through. I've chopped pine (No prob at all) and even oak (not a big deal) but this was three trees in a row that were right in my path so I let into them. They actually made the metal ring. It felt like I was trying to chop down a oak tree with a pocket knife. I got them down and my edge was as dull as all get out. they weren't petrified cause the wood was still wet and fresh. But what ever it was it was hard as a rock. So yeah after that I needed to resharpen. Not complaining about the grind. I love my Busses. Just a thought on form thats all. And sharpening isn't a big deal seeing as how I get a nasty edge everytime. Just thought it would make sharpening easier on the other side. And once again I guess I am a tard.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Ryu :

Will steeling return a dull blade to razor sharp without honing?

If it has dulled by edge rolling yes, this is the cause most of the time. There are few materials that blunt by wear, fiberglass insulation being one for example. Wood blunts by rolling and impaction, steeling will restore the edge.

-Cliff