Flitz Questions

crazy nicky

crazy nicky

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How should I apply this stuff to my knives? And will it damage the steel or just certain types? And what do you guys who have used this use to buff this stuff out? Thanks...
 
Flitz Metal Polish is a non-abrasive suitable for all metals. Being non-abrasive, it's my preferred polish. It can remove tarnish, rust, water stains, oxidation, and hardened fingerprints with remarkably little effort. While Flitz is safe on metals, it can damage some insert materials, so use it carefully.

Keep in mind that not all knives should be polished. Polishing can actually destroy the collectible value of an older knife. Many older carbon-steel blades have a wonderful blue/gray
patina. That oxide layer not only speaks of age, but it is the metal's natural protection from rust. Old brass gets a wonderful deep gold color. A bit of Flitz can make these surfaces shine like new... but that would NOT be a good thing to do. Many older blades, those found on Filipino Handmade balisongs, for example, were not originally polished since the makers didn't have the equipment and supplies to polish them. With
Flitz, you can polish them brightly. But, again, that would NOT be a good thing to do.

It is very difficult to get Flitz out of the grain of wood or out of leather, so don't get it on wood or leather in the first place. It's also hard to get Flitz out of cracks other tight places on a knife including inside the joints of a balisong. So be very careful not to get it in there in the first place.

I apply Flitz with a heavy-duty paper towel (get these at automotive supply stores). I sometimes use a Q-Tip to apply Flitz in tight places.

To remove hardened fingerprints, minor rust, etc., apply a generous layer of Flitz and just let it sit for a minute or two to penetrate.

So, while Flitz is gentle and non-abrasive, it's still something you have to use with great forethought and great care.

This is another product that's kind of expensive. But, it's another product where a little bit will go a long way. The 50 gram tube for $8.99 + s&h will easily polish a hundred balisongs. But, this is also another product that, once you've got it around the house, you will find a hundred other uses for.
 
crazy nicky,

I'm not Chuck, but I was just using Flitz right now, so here is my take. It is a polish to brighten up metals and even fiberglass, but it doesn't take out scratches like where multiple blades might rub against each other in a Stockman pattern or such. Possibly you could use a buffing wheel with it to do the scratch removal thing, but I have never tried that. Maybe someone else will chime in on that issue, as well.

Bill:)
 
Exactly. Flitz is non-abrasive. It doesn't remove metal and it won't move metal around.

To get a scratch out, you have to either remove metal down to the scratch or you have to move metal around and fill in the scratch.

On a soft metal such as brass or copper, you can actually, by rubbing, move metal around. Very often, with a scratch on soft metal, the material that came out of the scratch is piled up on either side of it. It's very much like digging a furrow in earth by dragging a hoe through it. When you finish putting the seeds in the furrow, you push the dirt back in. (I've had bad luck gardening, though. I keep trying to grow seedless grapes and I can't get 'em to come up.) The same thing happens in soft metal and you can actually, by rubbing, push the material back in.

But, on hardened blade steel, that won't work. You need a metal-removing process. For very light scratches, it's possible. But for deeper scratches, it is very, very difficult to remove the scratch without screwing up the rest of the blade.
 
I've used a product called "Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish" with great results. This is another non-abrasive polish and this polish will not repair those scratches either. What I have used it on with the best results is the stonewash type finish. I will usually polish the blade several times a day for a few weeks. At the end of those few weeks I have a blade that usually looks great. The Cuda MAXX blade is one such blade that I've done this with and had great results.

I use soft cotton cloths to apply and remove. Once satisfied with the finish I apply a couple coats of Ren. Wax to the blade.

Btw, Chuck is exactly right about polishing older knives. These are best left alone if their value is in question.
 
No true knife nut should be without Flitz! I'd hate to see what some of my knives would look like without it. That, and RenWax are two "gotta haves".
 
I use Flitz (liquid that comes in a plastic bottle) on most of my knives--I don't use it on bead blasted blades--and I like the results. Others may have different opinions but the Flitz just didn't seem to work right for me on the BB material. (Possibly, because of the Flitz getting into the micro-pores of the finish making it difficult to polish out.

In another thread on Flitz, it was brought up that this cleaner is safe for use on knives used for food. (Disclaimer: This is what was brought up and I don't personally guaranty this contention).
 
What about writing on a blade? My Bud Nealy has Bud's signature etched in black would the flitz f with it?
 
If it's etched (either electro-chemically or laser) or if it's engraved, then it's no problem.

If it's inked, then I would not risk Flitz or just about any other cleaner.
 
Depending on the frequency and strength of the elbow grease, Flitz will smooth out the surfaces of a bead blast blade. Much easier for lightly blasted surfaces. Etching will fade as well. Done and seen this on a few of my blades.

Metal Glo is a high quality product. But I would take care in its use. I believe it is an abrasive compound. I have seen others use Metal Glo on the blued surface of handguns. The bluing faded! I have used Flitz on firearms for years, No bluing removed. That' s my experience.

Nakano
 
I know Flitz is supposed to be non-abrasive, but in my experience, it IS mildly abrasive, and with enough buffing, it will smooth over light scratches, and most definitely remove any sort of writing on metal, or even a light etching. As mentioned, it can also remove some blade finishes. Despite what they say, there is something mildy abrasive in its composition, along with whatever chemicals are present.

Its great stuff, i use it all the time, its awesome for pistol feedramps because it makes them smooth and mirror-like and because it is so mild, it doesnt remove enough metal to alter angles, but it IS somewhat abrasive, and it will fade, or even remove gun/knife bluing in a heartbeat.
 
I agreee it had very mild abrasive qualities. I'm using it currently on a project and it has significantly lightened the etching on the blade as well as making small scratches look better

Geoff
 
I got a small light scratch on my Al Mar Sere, if I were to get Flitz on the Al Mar logo, will that ruin the logo?
 
Flitz is abarasive, that's it's primary cleaning method. That's why it removes everything from silver tarnish to iron oxidation on steel. However, it is a very mild abrasive compared to some other polishes. However, you can polish with just a paper towel, it takes longer, but the abrasive of the paper will remove oxidation.
 
Originally posted by crazy nicky
I got a small light scratch on my Al Mar Sere, if I were to get Flitz on the Al Mar logo, will that ruin the logo?
Click to expand...

I have a SERE 2000 that for the last 3 yrs I've used Flitz on with no fading/removal of the logo at all. However, I've also used it on many other blade logos with different results. I've used it at least 20 times on one of my 1999 Marble's 7" Trailmakers and the logo (etched) shows no sign of wear. Now on my other Trailmaker (same size & year)the logo almost vanished out of sight the first time I used Flitz.:eek:
The same could be said for many etched Case knives that I own. Some etching doesn't budge and others seem to instantly fade away. I never can predict what will happen when I use Flitz on a logo. I sit there all tense and puckered up waiting for the results as I remove the coating. It's a scary feeling.

I can also say that Flitz works great on removing rust from a blade. Just be careful because if you spend too much time scrubbing the rust from one spot only (not the entire blade evenly) you'll end up with a super shiny (rust-free of coarse) spot causing quite an eyesore not much better than the rust spot itself.

Basically, the bottom line is that Flitz (and Ren Wax) are great products that are a must have for any knife enthusiast. I'm just starting to be a little more careful with the use of Flitz on logos, that's all. I would still (and I do) recommend Flitz to be used 1st followed by a coating of Ren Wax for most knife blades.

--The Raptor--
 
Flitz is non-abrasive. It's primary cleaning method is chemical. If you rub hard enough, vasoline can seem abrasive. Even a soft cotton flannel cloth has some small bit of abrasiveness to it.

With Flitz, strong or prolonged rubbing is not necessary.
 
Thanks alot guys! You guys have helped me out tremendously...but I'm still scared to use this stuff on my new Bud Nealy! I'm going to get some Ren Wax too...any advice on using the Ren Wax? I'm going to test this Flitz **** out on some less expensive knives before I put it on my good knives.
 
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