Flushing out a folder with water

Shmackey

Shmackey

Joined
May 5, 2000
Messages
1,478
I've heard a lot about using running water to remove the grit from the pivot area, but how do you avoid rust afterwards? I would think that, even if you smother your knife in tri-flow or whatever, there will still be pockets of water to wreak havoc. Especially in an axis lock, which is my main concern. Any tips for proper flushing with water?

Thanks,

Shmackey
 
Personally I'd flush with Break-free, if you can't take the knife apart. I've used water, and then a hair dryer to dry, then plenty of oil. I've not had a problem with my Case knives doing that, but these days I don't buy it if I can't take it apart.

Brandon

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I've got the schizophrenic blues
No I don't
Yes I do...
 
Some have advocated the use of WD-40 as a flushing solvent (NOT for lubing); others have suggested brake fluid. I would use 1,1,1 trichloroethane, or the new solvent marketed as Gun Scrubber. Drying with a compressed air nozzle is also recommended.

Best way is to disassemble and clean thoroughly, then relube (probably two dozen posts about what to use for lubing if you have questions; just use search). Most reputable knife makers make their knives easy to disassemble and reassemble.

Walt
 
Depending on the construction of your knife, you might consider flushing with boiling water (carefully please
wink.gif
). This technique has been used in the cleaning of rifle bores for some time. The advantage to using boiling water (in addition to the fact that it probably cleans better than cold water) is that the boiling water also heats up the metal such that when your done flushing, the hot metal causes the residual water to evaporate quickly leaving everything nice and dry. Again, the type of knife will dictate whether or not this is a good idea. A coil spring auto, for example, might not be a good choice; a BM Pinnacle would probably work fine.

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Semper Fi

-Bill
 
I probably sound like a sissy, but be careful when using halogenated solvents (such as trichlorethane). They aren´t really known for improving someone´s health.

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"Peace is not without conflict; it is the ability to cope with conflict" - Leo Giron
 
I clean all of my folders and fixed blades with comet cleanser, a brush, and running water. Never had a problem with using this method and I've been doing this for several years on the knives I have.

If you worried about it, just let it dry then drop a dab of oil in the lock.

Jeff

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Randall's Adventure & Training
jeff@jungletraining.com
 
To get grit out I usually work in a good amout of liquid dish soap, dawn, joy, what ever. Work it into the action and use all you want. This will help get out the oil that is holding the grit in. Then flush with warm water and work the action under the water till all the soap is rinsed out. Dry with a towel and then hose, and I do mean hose, it down good with WD40 or equivalent. After all the WD stands for water dispersal, that is what it is meant for. Wipe it down again and use the lube of your choice for the action.
I've been collecting the extra oil that I don't have the patience to wait for when I do an oil change (the clean oil still clinging to the bottle that is, I turn the bottle over and let it drain into a small bottle with a needle aplicator). It is Redline 10-40 full synthetic, works great.

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Not that Comet (or other abrasive cleansers) isn't a great cleaner, but chlorine attacks stainless steel, at least the austentitic ones that are used in pharmiceutical manufacturing (or brewing). I'm not sure if the eutectic makes a difference. Nor am I sure what the effects are on a carbon steel.

On the other hand, the amount of chlorine exposure isn't long or really concentrated, but I wouldn't use it on a prized blade. I wouldn't really be concerned about a little discoloration on a work knife.

Soap and hot water for me and sometimes a squirt of acetone for the sticky stuff.

I've heard of using White Lightning for lube, which evaporates to a dry lube, but I prefer Break Free.
 
I have a 710, M-2 steel too, that I have been gunking up and flushing out for months with no visible rust or any noticeable degradation in function. Looks and feels like new. Wash with hot soapy water, rinse thoroughly, flush generously with wd-40, let dry overnight, and lube with Triflow. Works fine, lasts a long time.

[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 07-17-2000).]
 
I use hot water then I blow dry it and use aqua net super strenghth hair spray.....with a part down the midle.Seems to work ok.

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Jay
Life is like a box of chocolates,never know what your gona git!
 
Anyone tried using contact cleaners? That's the stuff that most electronics gadget boys use to clean the contact surfaces of electrical and electronic equipment. The vapours are not good for your health, so use it in an open area, but it cleans quite well and you don't worry about corrosion afterwards.
 
Be careful with Gun Scrubber. Contrary to what the can says, I've seen it attack some plastics including knife component.

Be careful with break fluid. It will also attack many plastics.

Some electronic cleaner contain lubricants that might not be what you want in your knife.

The letters WD in WD-40 stand for water dispersant. It was made for getting water out of components and works well.

Compressed air is one of the best solutions either from a shop compressor or from one of those spray cans you can get a photo shops.

Hot air from a hair dryer is a good option too.

Benchmade Bali-Songs are top-rack dishwasher safe and come out ready for lubrication.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
Best knife cleaning tool: that stupid two ended brush that comes with an electric shaver. Short scrubbers on one end, longer ones on the other. I drop a few drops of oil on there (Mazola is great!) and then brush all the schmootz out.

Who knew?

RLR
 
I clean my AFCK and RETAK Tanto by flushing water through it and simply air drying it. No problems with rust.

Will
 
I've had several folders (including my Benchmade 820 with ATS-34 blade) run through the laundry in a pants pocket. Washed and dried in the drier. I can't recall any problems and I certainly haven't seen any rust develop. I think "washing" the appears to be fine as long as it's dried quickly and effectively. Sure get's 'em clean!


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Fred
Knife Outlet
http://www.knifeoutlet.com
 
Using the included allen wrench, disassemble your folding knife - clean - lubricate - then reassemble.

What? Your folder isn't a Sebenza.

Never mind.
 
Compressed air is a great way to clean out the junk, But watch out for any parts you could blow away! I blew out a Spyderco M.W. Lightweight and the Spyderco emblem/cover for the pivot went flying...Took an hour to find it.

 
I just use warm water, use a hair drier (I'm careful not to heat up the knife blade too much though, I'm afraid to mess up the temper), and then put some Tri-Flow in the areas that can't be wiped off. Does anyone know if the heat generated from using a hair drier can effect the temper of the steel?

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Chang and the Rebels of the East!
Southern Taiwan Will Rise Again!
cst.jpg
 
I 've found a great way to really clean those hard to get to places in the folders without having to take them apart. I use a water pick with warm water and it really blows the crap out of those hard to reach areas. I then flush with hot water,then dry with a hair dryer , then lube while still warm. Works great and is fast.
tongue.gif



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Ray Carr
 
C'mon....rinsing with water is fine....just dry the knife by letting it sit out or use compress air or blow dryer and add a few drops of Tuf-Glide....no problemo.

I clean my high carbon steel knives all the time with water. With proper maintenance the chance of rust is near nil.

My favorite rust inhibitor is Sentry's Tuf-Glide.

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~Greg Mete~
Kodiak Alaska
 
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